What tool should I be using...?

[kenboonejr]

So I made one board bow out of oak so far.  I used a typical design, and I used the sander...  so I made a bow that works, but instead of being around 40-45lbs I tillered it down to a 12 lb bow     So my daughter loves it and I learned a lot.  I know what I did wrong and I have another one just like it that I am working on now although much slower and I understand a little more of what effects thinning the limbs has on the draw weight.

I also have a pyramid bow in the works that I am building from 4est Trakker's build a long which I found on here.  This bow I am going much slower on and staying away from the power sander.

So in his plans the thickness of the bow should be right at 15/32 of an inch.  So I cut it out on the bandsaw to get close and now I am trying to work it down to 15/32 of an inch.

I have a sureform rasp, a spoke shave and a bow scraper.  The bow scraper's blade is slightly curved so I was concerned that I would not end up turning a straight piece of wood into something with curves and dips in it that will have to be sanded down severely at the end.  I just recently got the spoke shave and really like that tool as I feel it gives me a straight even shave.  But again I am new to this and don't really know what I am doing.

When I put the calipers on the limbs tonight, they were reading around .530".  I worked on one limb for about 45 mins straight with the spoke shave.  When I was done, I had it down to around .510"  I need to get it down to .468.  I'm just thinking that it took 45 mins to get that limb down a little bit - how much more time it will take to get them both down to that size will be several hours.  That is fine if that is what I need to do, but I am wondering if I should be using a different tool to get it closer to the .468 mark faster, and then switch back to the spoke shave to get it down to size.

Just looking for some thoughts form you guys.  I am going down the right path just continue on with the spoke shave or switch over to something else to take more wood off faster or what?

Thanks for the suggestions!

[mwosborn]

You are in the process of "floor tillering".  I use a nicholsen #49 file to do this.  Once bending evenly, and begin tillering on the string, I use a cabinet scraper.  I stay away from the sander myself.

[Pat B]

Forget the power tools and measurements. Start removing wood from the belly side with a rasp and scraper until your limbs are bending evenly and together. I know that sounds simple but with some pics from you and our help you'll have a shooter before you know it.
 If you pull your bow to your draw weight while tillering and not beyond you won't make an underweight bow.

[mikkekeswick]

Instead of thinking about specific thicknesses you should be using a scale and a long string to see how far your limbs bend at your intended draw weight.
If you try to go a specific thickness you will come in under weight almost for certain. I'd strongly recommend buying Traditional Bowyers Bible and read the chapter on tillering.

[Scott F]

Follow Pat's advice and search for "tillering gizmo" - it will help you.

[Roy from Pa]

Make one of these.
 http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000075

[kenboonejr]

I do have the books and I did make that tool.  I understand what you guys are saying about going through this process.  I am doing that very thing using the tillering gizmo on the 2nd oak board bow.  I was under the impression that with the pyramid style bow, that you are really adjusting the draw weight by taking off the sides of the bow and that at a given limb thickness with a given type of wood (the pyramid I am working on his hickory) that it should put you in the ballpark.  So that is what I was trying to do.

I didn't use the tillering gizmo on the 1st bow, and on the 2nd oak board bow that I am working on it is making all the difference in the world.

So I guess my fundamental problem is that with the pyramid bow I am working on.  A lot more wood still needs to come off the limbs to get it to start to bend more.  I think the spoke shave will be great once I get to the final tillering stage, but right now it just doesn't seem to take enough wood off.

So one of you mentioned a nicholson #49 and one of you mentioned a scraper.

Is this what I should be using to take more wood off than I am with the spoke shave at this point in the process?  Like I mentioned I have a bow scraper - but the blade has a curve to it - its not straight.  Don't know if that was by design or not.  Just worried I wouldn't be pulling wood off evenly across the limb.  What do you think?

Thank you guys for all the help.  I'll post some pictures later tonight if I get done working in time.

[kenboonejr]

Hey guys I told you wrong.  Every time I mentioned spoke shave - I really meant draw knife.

[takefive]

I'd use the Surform to rasp it down since you have it on hand and still have a fair amount of wood to remove.  I used one on the first bow I made and it did the job until it broke.  I got a Shinto saw rasp and a farrier's rasp after that and have used those on the 20 bows I've made since.  
Try to get even strokes with your rasp and make sure not to dip below your line.
Good luck and keep posting!

[monterey]

My intitial tillering on a pyramid oak board bow is a table saw.  I cut it to thickness before laying the bow out.  Cut it so your cut is on the side you chose for the belly.  Leave some meat for tillering.  If you want the fade to start on the board rather than just glue the riser wood to the belly, then leave the last bit of cutting to square to be done with a hand saw.  forest trekkeer cuts his on a band saw and if you have one available it is the better option.

Not all oak boards are equal so if you have a special target weight, do as explained above or be sure to leave plenty of meat for tillering.

[John Scifres]

I'd use a #49 rasp.

[George Tsoukalas]

I agree with Pat. Leave the power tools for later on in your bow making life as they take off too much wood too fast.

Use a rasp or surform.

Once I string it up I use only a scraper-like tool.

Jawge

[kenboonejr]

So after doing a little research I found that the Nicholson #49 used to be made in America and it was great, but now is made in brazil and is compared to a majorly dulled american made nicholson #49.    So I am assuming you guys recommending the #49 probably have the older American made one..?

If the new #49 is really not good any more, what would you recommend in its place?
Thanks again for the advice guys.  I really appreciate it.

[Roy from Pa]

A farriers rasp....

[Green]

I just purchased a new #49 to replace one that I can't find for some reason.  Quality on the current models is just fine.....takes off wood like a Beaver.    :D

[Pat B]

For years all I used was a 4 in 1 carpenters rasp and it worked just fine. It is nice to have the flat side and the rounded side for different applications. A farriers rasp is also a good tool for removing lots of wood. It cuts deep but you can smooth that out with the less aggressive side.
 Any rasp will work to get you started. Later you can buy quality tools if you decide to continue on with bow making.