Pat - No I don't want that much reflex with this bow. The sinew doesn't put these bows into reflex. When you add a sinew layer it is going onto a concave (from the side profile) surface and as such you would have a chance of the sinew drying and then pulling itself off the core as it tries to 'straightline' during drying. So to overcome this potential problem you apply the sinew, let the glue gel and then reflex the bow by shortening the rope between the tips. This helps with the bows speed but more importantly it eliminates any chance of the sinew delaminating.
Cheers Roy
Wood carver....me too! It's only going to be a light one of around 50# I've got some monsters in the works, built to the same dimensions as actual bows from the Topaki Museum collection. These should come out over the 100# mark.
Jsweka - Look up 'tepliks'. These give you plenty of control for stringing once the bow is tillered.
Ben - yes you are right I get the same comments as well. The best thing is showing a bow in this state to someone who isn't informed about them...they tend to look at you like you are mad, thinking that it is already finished and strung up....surely that can't work????Hehe!
Well I don't mind photographing the tillering process on this one. Making these bows is indeed a long drawn out affair, maybe not really suited to a build-a-long?
If anybody out there wants to start one of these then I would say that the only sensible way is to get Adam Karpowzi's book. There are just too many things you have to get dead right that the learning process would be next to impossible without that book or the patience of a saint!
Topic: Turkish hornbow (Read 665 times)
