Need help Making a first time all bamboo bow

[GmanGomez]

Hey Guys just call me Gab

I've been into traditional archery for over 4 years now but only recently started getting into making bows. I live in the Philippines so the only wood that's accessible to me is bamboo it's only 30PHP/ 30$ cents here for an 8ft workable plank but I have a major problem

 Processing the bamboo into a workable plank is quite hard, all of them are bent ,even the straightest one I can get is still bent at some node along the boo

-Heating hasn't worked but I've used only a stove
-I tried planing the sides but my plane just rides along the curves

I've tried making staves out of 8 planks already, 8 is pretty thick and I am hoping this is the one that makes it to bow worthy level.

Here's a list of tools available to me
1) angle Grinder with sanding pads
2.) A rasp
3.) Jig Saw
4.) small planer
5.) Lots of sand paper
6.) Hand axe
7.) Machete

I am thinking of getting a Blow torch to try and get better heating on it

Here are pictures of the material I am working with
 

 

Thanks in advance guys, I am really hoping to learn a lot.

[fujimo]

look up woodcarver2 posts.
he builds a pretty good bamboo back and bamboo belly bow
 http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=012829;p=2#000021

[GmanGomez]

Thanks for the link, I am actually also basing my design around this guy

 http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=001887

I guess I'll make this a build along too

[wood carver 2]

You might think about using wood for the core lam. I have made a couple of all bamboo bows and they shoot well enough but they took a lot of set. I don't know what hardwoods are available to you that are good core woods. I have used cherry, hickory, hard maple, walnut and osage as cores all with very good results.
The bamboo on the back and belly has to have the nodes remain intact. Sand them down a bit, but don't remove them. Heat treat the belly lam only.
Have fun building, post pictures of your progress and ask questions. There are bowyers here who will help you. I am still learning the craft and no expert by any means, but I will share what I have learned with you if you like.
Dave.

[mikkekeswick]

To bend it you need to heat it until it starts to 'sweat'. Once it's hot enough it will bend like a wet noodle. Do not scorch it but heat slowly.
When you have your straightened sections decide which is to be the belly and heat treat it until medium brown with a heatgun. Again slowly is the key - let the heat soak right in. This will transform IT'S COMPRESSIONAL PROPERTIES. without HEAT TREATING THE BELLY YOU WILL GET LOTS OF SET.....DOH CAPSLOCK!
apart from that its just practise.
Stick with pyramid width taper as thiswill make your thicknesses much easier to work out.

[GmanGomez]

Tried that already but it still doesn't work, I can't seem to get it to sweat and it just gets scorched, is it possible my boo is too dry? the entire thing is already a light brown with no green spots on it anywhere

[mikkekeswick]

Whether its dry or not you can straighten it with heat.

[mikkekeswick]

If it's scorching you are probably heating it too fast. What are you using for a heat source?

[GmanGomez]

A blow torch, am I suppose to heat just the node area or a certain length extending from the node?

[wood carver 2]

Keep the flame moving. Don't let it sit in one spot. Also, hold the flame back a bit so it's not too close to the bamboo. It takes me about 10 minutes to blacken a six foot length of boo.
I also blacken the whole thing nodes and all. The trick is to keep it even. Even with dry bamboo, you will see steam coming out from the ends of the slat as you heat it.
Dave.

[robin]

Gab, I live in south east Asia too and I too experience the same kind of boo. I cut the boo into half so I have more room to put my pattern and cut out the boo.

It does not matter if you have a non moving handle and butt join the boo in the middle.