Selfbow tillering

[snag]

So, now that I have scaled back a little in my arrowbuilding I pulled an Osage bow out to finish. It is pulling 30#@18" and has a pretty nice bend to it now. I am going for at least 55#@ 27". Can't remember how much poundage you gain per inch of draw?

[mwosborn]

I can vary a bit for sure, but 2 to 2.5 pounds per inch is a general rule.

[snag]

....not what I wanted to hear...another under 55# bow. Better start another one.

[rainman]

How long is the stave? You can pike it and gain around 5 lbs per inch, if it is long enough.

[snag]

Have to check on that Rainman. Guess I could cut off an inch...

[Eric Krewson]

I was shooting a tournament with a friend who had bought a Ryan Gill bow as well as his video on bow making. My friend pointed out a deflex in the handle of the bow he bought and said that Ryan stated in the video one could pick up 5 or 6 pounds on an under poundage bow by deflexing the handle slightly with steam.

[Pat B]

Tempering the belly will raise the weight a bit too and if you add some reflex at the time you can get a few more pounds.

[mikkekeswick]

Yes I would start another too. Those weight estimations are fine if your bow happened to be tillered well enough at 18 to be pulled to 27 without any stiff or weak spots appearing along the way. Factor in that you will likely have to round the edges off and the belly will lose a bit of resistance to bending as its pulled further. I'd save this one for a 40 - 45# intended weight bow.
As a general tip make sure you pull the bow to its finished weight all the way through tillering as long as the tiller is good enough. This way you will never end up chasing weight.

[EwokArcher]

Originally posted by Eric Krewson:
I was shooting a tournament with a friend who had bought a Ryan Gill bow as well as his video on bow making. My friend pointed out a deflex in the handle of the bow he bought and said that Ryan stated in the video one could pick up 5 or 6 pounds on an under poundage bow by deflexing the handle slightly with steam.

Don't you mean reflexing  at the handle? A reflex at the handle would add early poundage, and performance if done properly.
And I do agree with Mike, that's how I tiller my wood bows also.

[Eric Krewson]

Yep, reflexing, I have senior moments more often these days.

[Roy from Pa]

I understand Eric.

[Dan Landis]

Been there a few times myself Eric.

[Roy from Pa]

Like why did I come out here.
LOL

[George Tsoukalas]

snag, I'd finish the bow.
Jawge

[Walt Francis]

Dave,
Finish the bow, take your time tillering, go slow.  You know, to put in a Fletchers terms, treat it like you are slicing feathers together.

Most of my bows hit the long string at 40-45#'s @ 20 inches and come out at 55-70#'s.  There is still a lot of room there but you have to maintain a good tiller all the way through. Leave the tips stiff, cut them off a couple of inches, and then heat some bend into them, if needed.  This shortens the working section of the limb and you can gain some extra weight but also puts more stress on it.  I had to do all three to make Pigger, and it became my all time favorite hunting bow.

[snag]

Thanks guys. It's 64" ntn. I think I'll take 1/2" off each end. Some heat and flipping the tips a bit, then tiller out.

[PEARL DRUMS]

I wouldn't hesitate to take 1" off each end, if need be. 62" ntn is plenty of osage for a 27" draw. I usually get closer to 3# per inch. I use a digital scale and trust it completely. Flipping tips will add a good 5# usually. I see no reason you cant reason your way through this and get exactly what you want Dave.

[Roy from Pa]

X's 2 on what Pearly said.

[snag]

That's good encouragement. Thanks. Cut an inch off each end last night...