Clear Glass any more difficult?

[Archer Dave]

I was just wondering if using clear glass is any more difficult then say black for building and finishing?

I am finally getting supplies together for my first glass bow and would like to go clear, but didn't know if there might be any reason to go with a solid color like black for my first bow.

Thanks
Dave

[jsweka]

As far as building a bow, it's just as easy as colored glass and you can treat them the same.

However, some "clear" glass isn't exactly clear and you can get some streaks in it that you may not notice until after you've glued the bow up. Streaky clear glass is more noticeable over dark wood laminations/veneers.  A couple years ago there was a lot of problems with poor quality clear glass, but I think Gordon Composites has now remedied the situation.

[breazyears]

I just got some that was the worst ive seen yet. Very dissapointed with it.
To answer your question...lol... No its the same for any glass.

[Archer Dave]

Thanks guys. I didnt know if it had to be sanded down really fine to ge scratches out to be clear. I know workig with plexiglass it takes a heck of a lot of work to get it crystal clear again after getting scuffed up.

Didnt know if it was the same with clear glass for bow.

[mikkekeswick]

No you just need to sand to about 320. It will still look 'scuffed' but once you put the finish on it clears up perfectly.

[Archer Dave]

Very good. Thanks everyone.

[bigbob2]

i have had some scungy clear since it was supposed to have been remedied.So bad I'm using it as pressure strips etc.New supplier has guaranteed clear for few dollars more and boy it IS clear. Best I've ever seen!!I am big on using clear on the belly to highlight snazzy belly veneers but the impact of color matched glass to riser can be just as dramatic.

[Holm-Made]

Clear would be a good choice for your first bow as it will allow you to see any flaws in your glass to veneer glue joint.

[monterey]

Originally posted by Holm-Made:
Clear would be a good choice for your first bow as it will allow you to see any flaws in your glass to veneer glue joint.

That's good advice right there.  

[BigJim]

mikkekeswick, I'm going to contradict you here...sorry. I wouldn't recommend sanding this fine. first off, it's not necessary. If you were staining wood, a fine grit is advantageous but since you covering with a clear coat, you won't be able to see any of the scratches above 180-220 grit unless they are badly swirled. Also not knowing what finish you intend on using, a 320 won't give it much to hold on to.
Now between coats, I do use 320 but I rarely sand past 180 before finish.

Now if you are doing a oil finish, all I mentioned is mute.
BigJim