hickory backing

[Jackpine Boyz]

I've searched the forum, but haven't quite found what I was looking for.

Would appreciate advice or some recommendations on making my own hickory backing.  I have good access to both boards or standing timber as well as some hickory staves.  

I'm curious on best cut. Rift cut for backing would be good  if rifts ran length of log.  Plain cut though makes sense if growth rings aren't violated. Or does none of this matter for backing.  
I've a few different cuts on the various archery suppliers.

thanks.

[takefive]

The hickory backing strips I've made have all been from boards and all were rift cut, if I remember right.  You're right that you want the rings to run pretty straight the entire length.  I haven't had one fail that had a little wiggle to the rings, though.
I rip mine on a table saw and make them 1/8" thick.

[Roy from Pa]

Rift is ok but 1/4 sawn is better. And you want no run outs or very few. 1/8th thick.

[Bowjunkie]

I prefer standing trees so I can control the entire process and care of the wood. With bought lumber, you don't know how it grew or how it was treated from the time it was cut.

I seek big smooth bark hickories so I can better gauge the quality of the wood through the bark, and since they grow straight and without twist or low limbs, knots, or cat faces often enough, that is what I seek. The slightest bend or hump will show as violations when lumber is sawed.

Drop em, cut the trunks 6 1/2' long, seal em, put them on the trailer and take them straight to my buddy's sawmill. Cut as much quartersawn lumber as I can approximately 2" wide, some rift is ok and inevitable. I stop shy of cutting every last bit, saving the last wedge shaped pieces for staves. Stack them in the garage with stickers, plenty of space between them, and staves on top, until the m.c. settles out.

Then to the shop for more drying, and ultimately planing, jointing, resawing on the bandsaw, and grinding to thickness in the drum sander.

I like straight quartersawn best as I feel its stronger and more predictable that way.

[TradBowyer]

how thick are you cutting these Jeff?

[Pat B]

A few years ago I bought a 8/4"x6"x10' long hickory board from a specialty lumber company. I think I paid about $30. I cut it into a 6' and 4' pieces then resawed the backing strips off the 2"(8/4") side. If I remember correctly it was rift sawn.

[Bowjunkie]

Tradbowyer, it depends on how thick I want them to be when finished, but usually I cut them at about 3/16" and grind them to 1/8" or less. On some wood cores like cherry, I've made the backing strip 1/16" thick when finished.

I used to have to cut them thicker because I cut them in my bandsaw by hand and my saw wasn't set up as well. Now I have a good bearing guide system and a resaw fence, so I can be more consistent and cut to closer tolerances.

[Pat B]

I do the same as Bowjunkie with the thickness.

[Jackpine Boyz]

Pat B,
I was thinking on doing something similar myself, I can have be neighbor make me a nice block of hickory how I need from what I have here.

For backings being so thin and glued on, does grain run out and orientation make a big deal?  Or can I just give it a bend test and if it holds glue it on.  

I may be over thinking this.

[Bowjunkie]

I'm very strict with ring AND grain runout. Overly cautious? Perhaps. But they don't fail so...  

[TradBowyer]

you don't have any issues with them twisting/warping while drying when you cut them that thin?

[Wolftrail]

Originally posted by Roy from Pa:
Rift is ok but 1/4 sawn is better. And you want no run outs or very few. 1/8th thick.

I agree, I have better luck with 1/4 sawn.    

[Bowjunkie]

I generally don't true them up, resaw or grind until they've dried enough the chances of them warping are greatly reduced. But that's also a good enough reason to cut only the very best trees you can find. They're more stable throughout the whole process.

[Pat B]

A well made hickory backed bow it nothing to scoff about. IMO it is way more durable than a boo backed bow and shoots almost as well...just not as sexy. Well thought out grain makes for a well made hickory backed bow so yes, grain orientation does matter.
 I will say...if any wood backing can handle grain violations, hickory can. The only hickory backing I have ever had fail was hickory that had rot in it. It wasn't visible but the wood was crumbly on the surface. It failed shortly after getting the bow to bend.