Author Topic: titebond and steam  (Read 590 times)

Offline bigbob2

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titebond and steam
« on: April 12, 2017, 01:19:00 AM »
Been playing around with couple self bows while waiting on new supplies for my more 'normal' glass bows.Will post some shots of one nearly finished once I get the true oil for the finish Looks ok to me. I roughed out 4 staves a while back all of which are fairly 'bumpy' to say the least.Working on the first two staves but  last two, decided to cut the 'good' section of each stave and z splice them to make one good stave. My question is will titebond stand up to being steamed? If not what would be more acceptable? I know Titebond is supposed to be waterproof but perhaps steam might be pushing it a bit.

Online Pat B

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Re: titebond and steam
« Reply #1 on: April 12, 2017, 11:45:00 AM »
All Titebond wood glues(TB,TBI,TBII,TBIII) break down at 150deg(F).
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!
TGMM Family of the Bow

Offline Bowjunkie

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Re: titebond and steam
« Reply #2 on: April 12, 2017, 12:27:00 PM »
I steam billets individually prior to splicing them together. Then you could use whatever glue you wanted. That said, I won't use Titebond for splices. I use Resorcinal, Smooth On, or Unibond.

Offline BMorv

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Re: titebond and steam
« Reply #3 on: April 12, 2017, 02:47:00 PM »
I recently had to re-heat a belly after it had been glued.  I used Unibond for the glue up but had some air gaps that I just filled with TBIII.  Almost immediately after applying some heat (only on the belly) with a heat gun the TBIII started to burn off and become liquid.  The heat didn't seem to phase the Unibond.  
I wouldn't use TBIII in any heat application after seeing how easy it broke down.
Life is too short to use marginal bow wood

Offline bigbob2

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Re: titebond and steam
« Reply #4 on: April 12, 2017, 06:25:00 PM »
Thanks guys appreciate the answers.Looks like I will take the advise, use smooth on, and steam each 'half' separately.

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