Author Topic: Rasp Identification  (Read 1266 times)

Offline BMorv

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Rasp Identification
« on: February 08, 2018, 02:38:00 PM »
I came across a pile of old rusty files and rasps that I want to clean up and possibly use in the shop.  I'm not familiar with these 2.  Any idea what they are used for and if they can be used on wood (bows)?
  [/url] [/IMG]
Life is too short to use marginal bow wood

Offline EvilDogBeast

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Re: Rasp Identification
« Reply #1 on: February 08, 2018, 03:11:00 PM »
The file under your thumb with the semi-circular teeth is a vixen file.  It is an extremely aggressive metal file used on aluminum and other softer metals.  It can be used on wood as well, but i suspect it could easily get you into trouble.  The file above it with the cross-cut teeth looks to be a horse file, but I'm not 100% on that one.  Horse files are used to shape and maintain horse hooves, and you may be able to use it on wood as well.  I would guess the horse file would be prone to clogging though.

Online Roy from Pa

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Re: Rasp Identification
« Reply #2 on: February 08, 2018, 03:43:00 PM »
Yup the top rasp is a farriers rasp. I use them for bows all the time. Mostly the finer teeth side.

Offline scrub-buster

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Re: Rasp Identification
« Reply #3 on: February 08, 2018, 03:48:00 PM »
The big farriers rasp is very handy when making self bows.  That one looks pretty rough.  You could build a simple electrolysis tank to remove the rust.  I built one last summer and cleaned up a lot of rusty skillets and some rasps.
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Offline BMorv

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Re: Rasp Identification
« Reply #4 on: February 08, 2018, 04:14:00 PM »
Thanks for the help.  I have some others that I thought were farriers rasp, but the one on the top has more aggressive teeth, almost like a cheese grater.  
I have them sitting in a vinegar salt solution and if that doesn't work I'll look into a electrolysis tank.  I love cleaning up old tools and giving them a new life.
Life is too short to use marginal bow wood

Online Roy from Pa

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Re: Rasp Identification
« Reply #5 on: February 08, 2018, 04:18:00 PM »
Just for your info, this place cleans and sharpens them for like $6.00. I've sent a few there.

 http://www.boggstool.com/page5.html

Offline Bowjunkie

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Re: Rasp Identification
« Reply #6 on: February 08, 2018, 04:39:00 PM »
The top one is a Farrier's rasp, and the bottom is a Babbitt file. I have some of each, new.

A new babbitt file, used just so, can remove wood quickly yet leave behind a very smooth surface. But if used at the wrong angle and it bites, it can do serious damage. Dull ones, of either type, aren't worth messing with in my opinion.

Offline BMorv

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Re: Rasp Identification
« Reply #7 on: February 08, 2018, 04:54:00 PM »
I might get a few of the nicer ones together and send them to the place Roy referenced and get them re-sharpened.  It looks like they don't care if it's rusted either.
Life is too short to use marginal bow wood

Online Roy from Pa

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Re: Rasp Identification
« Reply #8 on: February 08, 2018, 04:56:00 PM »
No they don't care and they will come back looking like new.

Offline scrub-buster

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Re: Rasp Identification
« Reply #9 on: February 08, 2018, 10:41:00 PM »
If you like restoring old tools you should definitely look into an electrolysis tank.  They are very simple.  It's a water tank, some metal plates, and an old style battery charger.  You mix some laundry booster in the water.  I made a jumbo set up for large cast iron skillets.  You can use a bucket for smaller stuff like rasps.  There are some good youtube videos about it.

 


This was a rusty skillet before I soaked it.  

 


This rasp looked similar to yours before soaking.  

 
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Offline mikkekeswick

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Re: Rasp Identification
« Reply #10 on: February 09, 2018, 04:11:00 AM »
Yes the tank is a great idea but you have to sharpen the teeth. The rust ate the 'sharpness'!

Offline BMorv

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Re: Rasp Identification
« Reply #11 on: February 09, 2018, 09:20:00 AM »
Damn.  I didn't realize the electrolysis tank did that good a job.  I will look into making one.  I've been cleaning up old tools with a grinder and an appropriate attachment but that looks much easier.    

Yeah mikkekeswick, I still plan to send a couple of the bigger ones off to get sharpened so that I can use them.  I'm pretty good at sharpening axes, chisels, draw knives, etc. but I don't even know where to start with a rasp.
Life is too short to use marginal bow wood

Offline Eric Krewson

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Re: Rasp Identification
« Reply #12 on: February 09, 2018, 09:29:00 AM »
I made about 100 bows with a #49 Nicholson, I didn't realize how dull it had become until I got a NOS one off fleabay for $20.

I sent it and my old #50 to Boggs, both came back better than new.

The way Boggs works is you send them your files, they sharpen them and send them back with a bill for the work, trusting folk.

If a file is too far gone to sharpen they will send it back with a note.

They do such great work I suspect no one would risk getting on their black list for non payment.

Come to think of it, I have a pile of dull files I use for flintlock building I need to send off.

Offline Bowjunkie

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Re: Rasp Identification
« Reply #13 on: February 09, 2018, 09:53:00 AM »
Ok, you guys convinced me. I checked out their site. I like the sound of their process. I have the original US made Nicholson 49 and 50 that I started making bows with, both long ago worn out. I'm going to send them to Boggs, with anything else I can find that needs it and see how they do.

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