Riser design & strength & construction ?

[Forwardhandle]

Coming from making self type bows Im not used to making near center shot type risers and I was thinking I would throw this out here to get some advice, Im planing on making my riser pretty much like Kenny does in his build along with the exception of adding 0.050 bow tuff & maple in the radius area to join the Mozabique & Maple together but I have read that the weakest part of this type riser is the belly side of the sight window, would I be better off to add vertical lams of bow tuff in this area also or does adding the glass in the radius area strengthen the riser enough to take stress off that area ? That would be in addition to stagering the grain in the wood" Hope that made sense !    

[kennym]

I think you will be fine, if you radius the corner where shelf meets window.  I've only ever had one break, and that was in a mule wreck in CO.

I think if you put some lamination in the riser side to side, it will work fine, unless you are planning a reallly heavy one, then I would Ibeam with thick G10

[Kopper1013]

If I could piggy back here...how much wood is needed to be safe from breakage if you don't wanna I-beam or add glass/g-10... I ask cause I wanna cut a riser 3/16" past center if possible....

[Forwardhandle]

Thanks Kenny probably over thinking it like I do on most bow building things ,Koop ask away , I'm interested in the answers you get to.

[kennym]

Well on a 1.5" riser, 3/16 past center leaves  9/16"  , that isn't much for just wood in my opinion.  Check with crittergetter, I think he built the off side out on a bow awhile back.

Consider the throat of grip, the "sorta" standard is 1" wide and 1.75" deep.  Will you be close to that much when you cut that deep?

Also will depend on weight of bow.

[Crooked Stic]

If you are going way past center you could glue a piece on the off side to go down into the finger groove area and shape it in. That will give extra thickness where the shelf and window come together. and about .090 G-10 dont hurt either.

[mikkekeswick]

x2 on Crooked Stics recommendations

[Forwardhandle]

If I lamanate 0.050 bow tuff with maple accents in the arrow areas horizontally do you guys think being that far up the ramps that it wont effect  the fade bend ? Im just going to keep my first simple !  There will be 4 lams of bow tuff.  

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[Crittergetter]

Originally posted by kennym:
Well on a 1.5" riser, 3/16 past center leaves  9/16"  , that isn't much for just wood in my opinion.  Check with crittergetter, I think he built the off side out on a bow awhile back.

Consider the throat of grip, the "sorta" standard is 1" wide and 1.75" deep.  Will you be close to that much when you cut that deep?

Also will depend on weight of bow.

All my 3 piece bows are cut 3/16-1/4 past center but inorder to achieve that i start with a 1 3/4” block. Then you have to tru up the bow hand side then true the limb pads to 1.5” for longbow while leaving the shelf area 1.75 wide. I measure about 10 times before i cut anything.
Then i measure again!! Lol
I was planning on doing it with a 1 piece at some point  but i havnt done it yet.

[Crittergetter]

Oops