cedar weight gain

[stykbow67]

Could somebody tell me what the wieght diff. between a 11/32 and a 23/64 50-55# full length my current arrows weigh around 525 and I need to get them up to 600 Thanks,Steve

[Ray Hammond]

use the 11/32 and just soak them in danish oil to get the weight up.

[laddy]

When this is done how consistent is the gain? Does finish or glue adhere to the shaft?

[Bjorn]

Ask your suppier for heavier 11/32 shafting.

[George D. Stout]

They will absorb different quantities of the oil, so you may end up with mismatched weights.  The diameter of the shaft usually doesn't matter...it's the density of the wood.  The 11/32 may actually be heavier mass.  I have bare wood tapered shafts that weigh 460 grains.  If it were me, I would just order heavier shafts in the 11/32 size.

[Dave Lay]

something I have heard but havent tried, I do have a buddy who has done it, with good results.. before tapering, drill the point end of the shaft, cut the head off a 8 penny or so nail, insert it and glue in the end of the shaft, then taper. depends on the nail but it offers a good weight gain, helps with FOC and really strengthins the shaft. The weight gain depends on "steel insert" size and length, and can be adjust easily.

[Terry Green]

What George said about the density!

[Ray Hammond]

I just take them out of the oil in 24 hours, let them drain, the next day weigh. The light ones are soaked longer. I don't have any trouble getting them consistent with patience.

That usually helps with most everything you do.
Getting heavier shafts these days, well, that may not be an easy option...Acme has been out of business a long time.

[Dave2old]

Dave Lay -- the nail sounded like a great idea, so I tried it. It is and it isn't. I used an 8d finish nail (no head to cut off) and an 11/32 cedar. Drilled the hole freehand with a hand drill, glued in the nail, tapered for target head, and she shoots just like before, no problems, with a 27-grain weight gain right up front where it belongs.

Ah, but then I tried it again today with another arrow and my hand wasn't so steady and the drill bit ran out the side and I now have another 2-short stump arrow I didn't need.

So, what we need to make this a consistently workable trick is some sort of gig for drilling straight into a shaft ... which is as difficult to arrange with a drill press as with a hand drill. Aside from having to drill 2+ inches into the shaft without going astray, if the head of the nail isn't precisely centered, you're in trouble when you taper for the point.

In sum, this is a great idea, but we need a simply drilling gig to make it work. Any ideas? Thanks, Dave

[Chad Sivertsen]

I just finished my first two footed arrows. I used Osage for the footing and pine for the shaft. Pine and cedar are similar weight I think. I did the two foot splice as detailed in TBB #3. Added weight and moved FOC forward....but it is a lot more work than gluing in a nail.

To drill the end of the shaft for the nail. Try mounting the drill horizontally on a work bench then set up some sort of "carrier" for the shaft. A simple wood block with a "V" cut in should work. carefully mount the block so it lines up with the drill bit. Push the shaft in to the drill instead of the other way around. Use a few scraps until you get the alignment correct.

[Dave Lay]

Dave2 old (me to!) a drill press of some sort would be the ticket, maybe something to hold the shaft and drill it?? you could use a bigger nail for more weight gain if ya wanted.. My buddy who is doing this, lives in salida, not real far from you,