LOL , there are a couple times I won't take a call, but I will call you back as soon as I can. I won't go into detail on that....
You certainly can make a form by tracing the existing limb. Be sure to give it a little extra curve or hook , like a quarter inch. You will have some springback off the form. The woods and glass you bent to the form will want to return to their natural straight position. The laminating holds the curve in but not quite all of it.
The router method will give you the best form in my opinion, it will be very square side to face. This is important, especially on a recurve because if the form is twisted or off a couple degrees, you have just built limb twist in your bow. When you trace your limb, I make a 1/4" plywood template , bandsaw and sand close to line, then bend a still piece, like a pc of glass or a metal yardstick around the curves and hold to light. This will show dips and flat spots you can't see or feel. ( won't tell you how I found this out!)
This is a one piece form but will be same basic method...
https://www.kennysarchery.com/buildalong/For the stack, do some measuring on the old limb if you know the weight on it. A set of dial (or digital) calipers will help a lot.
Check width, (write it all down in your new bow notebook for future reference) go an inch past the end of wedge( TD) or fadeout (end of riser on a 1 pc) and get a thickness. Now go out 10" and get another , divide the difference by 10 and you have your taper rate (recurve prob .002" per inch) .
Now you have a baseline from the old limb, and can do some SWAG to get the weight close on the first one.
Since you are going to make a form and a guess on the first bow , I would pick a bow design I really liked so you don't have to do it again after the trial run...
And what's this old guy crap Ritchie?
Welcome to the fun brother!!
Topic: Newbie questions regarding the making of limbs (Read 1952 times)
