Question for surewood shooters

[TradBrewSC]

Good morning guys,

For those of you shooting surewood shafts, do you typically prefer ordering them tapered?

I am diving back into building wood arrows after 15 years of not. I always made and shot parallel cedars in the past, but the idea of having them tapered down to 5/16 just makes since. Is there a reason not to order them this way?

[Tim Finley]

I like mine tapered. I've tapered all of my old shafts and the last I ordered from Surewood I ordered tapered . I just think they shoot better. I do prefer my own taper because its longer.

[Orion]

Not a big difference, but I like tapered shafts as well. Can get them physically a little lighter, they recover a little faster and add about 1% FOC if you're in to that kind of stuff. 

[Biathlonman]

I ordered them tapered and tapers cut, money well spent in my book.

[Zradix]

I like tapered shafts in general...haven't gone with actual surewoods yet..thinking about it.

I like the way they look for 1.
I also like the smaller nock between my fingers.
And...having them a few grains lighter...especially in the back... is a plus as I like to shoot fairly heavy arrows that get the weight from the point.

I can't honestly say I've noticed quicker recovery, better shooting etc..

[Big Stew]

I just finished a half a dz. of their premium tapered this morning. They were straight and nocks fit great. I have always shot tapers,they seem to fly better for me.

[pavan]

I have a large stash of original 5/16" Mercury nocks, so it is tapered for me.  I let Surewood do all of the cutting and tapering. 

[MnFn]

Yes, I like tapered.

[STICKBENDER98]

I ordered some in 60-65 spine to gain a bit more mass weight and have been very happy with them they fly great from my long bow which is 48# @ 28".  I have some others that are parallel in lighter spine weight and they fly just as good.  I think you'll be happy which ever way you go with the shafts.  This is part of the fun of doing your own arrows, there is so much out there to try.  I'm always buying shafts to try whether I need them or not, and the best part is if they don't work out for me I can always pass them along to someone else or donate to a good cause for a raffle prize.

Jason

[TradBrewSC]

Thanks guys! Some great information here but think that tapered is going to be the way to go for me.

Now my next question:

I have been shooting carbons for 15 years now. For the past 5 years I was shooting either footed axis arrows or FMJ's.

Lately I have been playing with the EFOC game shooting X-impacts w/ 25% FOC (300gr up front). My shooting is better than ever with the x-impacts, but am not really impressed w/ their durability for the cost. I have a friend shooting the Valkarie insert system with the x-impacts and the durability is much better but holy cow the cost for all of that!

With all that being said, it has really made want to start playing with woodies again for the cost, fun of building and the "organic" feel of shooting them. I have gotten into cresting and splicing so it just seems to make sense.

Now to those of you that shoot wood arrows as well as the micro-EFOC arrows... Are the woodies just going to tick me off in comparison to the "super arrows" I have been shooting lately????

[STICKBENDER98]

I don't have any experience with the mico shafts, I have pretty much shot gold tips carbons.  I have been shooting 225 grain and 240 grain tips on the front of my surewoods, and have been shooting them with the goldtips also, both shoot well with the forward weight.  I think the carbons seem to shoot a bit more consistent for me, but I notice my bow is much quieter with the woodies.  It's always fun to experiment and see what happens.

Jason

[michaelschwister]

I always order mine premium, option #2, full length.  Back 11" or so tapered down to 5/16" and nock tapered.  Cut them to length and taper on my combo sander, then stain them (based on spine groups, 90-95# dark brown, 75-80# unstained, 65-70# for my selfbows a reddish brown), wipe on 3 coats of gloss helmsman spar urathane from a can, fletch using duco cement, then 0000 steel wool and then wiped with johnson floor wax

[Orion]

Well, you're going to break a lot more woodies than carbons.  In the end, they'll end up costing about the same. 
How well they fly for you depends on the quality of the material your start with, how closely you match them and the craftsmanship with which you build them. 

If well made and well matched, wood arrows will fly every bit as good as carbons. The key is well made and well matched, and correctly matched/tuned to your bow, of course.  It takes considerably more effort to build good wood arrows than assembling carbon arrows.

[Steve O]

Now to those of you that shoot wood arrows as well as the micro-EFOC arrows... Are the woodies just going to tick me off in comparison to the "super arrows" I have been shooting lately????

That will be an absolute YES sir...

[TradBrewSC]

Now to those of you that shoot wood arrows as well as the micro-EFOC arrows... Are the woodies just going to tick me off in comparison to the "super arrows" I have been shooting lately????

That will be an absolute YES sir...

HAHA Figured I would get this from you! I owe you a phone call.. It has been such a whirlwind recently I have neglected my buds! I am going to change that tomorrow, so expect a ring!

I do really love these x-impacts and am sure when I pass through a big critter with one there will be not turning back. However, me being the perfectionist that I am will end up wanting the Valkarie system to go with it and the next thing you know there is almost $300 invested in 6 arrows!