Carbon Nock removal?

[Bucksnort101]

Just received a dozen new Beman MFX Carbon shafts with X-Nocks installed and realized that the x-nocks they came with are glued in place.  Will be using 100 grain insert in the front and will was hoping to cut the nock end of the arrow down for arrow tuning. Any suggestions on removal of the existing nocks cleanly? I've read of heating the shafts in hot water or putting a small diameter drill bit in the shaft and whipping it down the shaft until the insert comes out, but am wondering if there are other suggestions on nock removal?
Also, have you found it neccessary to glue nocks into the Beman MFX shafts or is frinction enough to keep them in the shaft?

[McDave]

Depending on the glue, the least destructive way would be to hold the nocks in boiling water for about a half-minute.  If they were glued in with hot melt, it will soften and you can pull them out.  If they were epoxied in, you may be SOL.

[LKH]

This works even for Goat Tuff.
Take a big field point, clamp it in vise grips and heat it red hot.  Then screw into the arrow very quickly and start pulling hard as soon as you have a couple turns.  Works better with a partner.  

This ensures the insert will pop out before the heat has enough time to damage the carbon/glue composite.

[JC]

McDave has it...if you can't get the nocks out with heat, you should be able to find the appropriate sized brass rod from a machine shop or hardware store. I have two about 8" long (one for axis, one for regular shafts)...slide it in the shaft from the other end (without insert) and slam it up and down with gravity...it usually knocks out the most stubborn broken/glued nock. Sometimes works for stripped inserts too.

I try to remove inserts as LKH does if they are not stripped and someone else put them in. When I put them in with JB weld, they ain't coming out, at least in my experience.

[hickstick]

JD   I have gotten out a couple JB welded inserts using the 'heat the field point method.  gotta put in a little elbow grease thought.   Think they were broken shafts so I wasn't all too concerned about torquing them too much.  not sure how it would work with a pristine shaft.


(I think it was you that recommended the JB weld in the first place...and it certainly holds them in)  :-)

[Charlie Cole]

I use the "rod method" too- but why get a short rod and rely on bouncing it around inside the shaft? Get a long 1/8" rod, wrap the tip one time with electrical tape so the edge doesn't score up the inside of the shaft, and ramrod it once or twice.

That way you can use just the pressure you need to pop the nock or point insert out without whipping the rod out the other end and into your wife's china cabinet.

-Charlie

[JC]

Charlie, I tried it with a steel cleaning rod and it wasn't stiff enough. I couldn't find any other material the size I needed and the machine shop didn't have any brass that diameter that long. Mine just hits the carpet when it comes out the end cause I do it vertically with my finger over the open end.

Good idea though, let us know where you found the rod and what it's made out of.

[mark land]

I have gotten some Axis and Beman shafts in where the nocks were so tight, I wondered if they were glued as well, but I do not think they are glued, just very tight.  Use some pliars to twist and pull them out.  If you use a rod inside the shaft you will damage the nocks so they are unusable.  Good luck, Mark

[Bucksnort101]

Thanks all. I tried a pliers last night and did not want to put too much pressure one them. Could not get them to budge.
This morning I remembered the little nock adjusting/puller tool I got from 3 Rivers a few years back. When I finally found it I was able to pull the nocks out. Very, very tight fit.

[LKH]

I have got to learn to read.  I thought you were talking about inserts.