1816's and 175 grains

[joel0711]

45# kodiak pulling 27.5 8 inch brace 1/4 nock
I'm confused---bare shafts hitting on the money---fletch shafts showing weak by 2-4 inches. Thought feather additions 'suppose to make it a little stiffer. Any ideas,,,less point weight,shorter arrow ( I hate to start cutting and go too far) I've got field points from 65grain to 300 grains to test.
6 shafts (1816 is the shaft my bow likes)--- Suggestions from experience will be appreciated!!!     THANKS   guys------Greg

[M60gunner]

Personally I believe your underspined with 1816. Then you added a ton of weight. So much in fact the point is controlling the bare shaft. I had this vary issue recently with carbons.

[joel0711]

1916's are definately too stiff at 29"--- stu's chart gives 79gr point for mt set up--I'll give my 75gr or 100gr  points a go

using kellys old chart

[Holm-Made]

What makes you think 1916s are too stiff?   An 1816 with a light point should equal a 1916 with a heavier point.  Also can’t you cut the 1916 longer then 29” if needed?

Before changing anything though,  shoot your fletched 1816 with the cock feather in.  I bet it is a feather clearance issue.

 If it bare shafts great it should shoot better with feathers.  Adding feather weight doesn’t make that much difference in spine. 

[joel0711]

I'll check my feather clearance and adjust Fletcher if needed-----thanks

[the rifleman]

Ive never had feather clearance issues with a properly tuned arrow.  When things don't add up for me during tuning i have found it was a form error that i needed to correct.  My name is John and I'm guilty of overdrawing...

[Ari_Bonn]

That does not sound right at all.    with a 1916 145gr cut to 28"    those bare shaft out of my 35# recurve 30# at my draw of 26".  There is no way a 1816 should be shooting out of a 45# especially with 175 that just sounds dangerous.

Bare shafting requires a very good release.    Have you tried paper tuning with feathers?

Remember if if you are a RH shooter and you have a bareshaft that the point is to the right and the nock is to the left its is underspined.

[Holm-Made]

Also try raising your nocking point up to 1/2”-5/8”.   1/4” is really low in my experience.   Good luck.  Chad

[Tater John]

if the fletched arrow is right of the bareshaft and you're a right handed shooter its a false reading. your arrow is so weak with 175. The bareshaft is suppose to tell you weak or stiff in relationship to the fletched shaft.
Given that, your bare shaft is showing stiff and there's no way with the setup you have.
Put 125gr on the 1816 and go from there


Rusty