Kennym 66” D/R bow blank build along

[Fishinglink]

Grip is almost done need to narrow it a tad around the back of the bow. But it’s starting to feel like a bow. Belt sander comes out tomorrow for the tips.


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[kennym]

Hey Cody,

May have told you, but the kinda average on grips is 1" wide and 1.75" deep.  BUT !!  make it fit your liking!!

Looking good!

[Fishinglink]

You may have but I don’t recall. So far just 1.25 across the back and 1.75 from back of bow to deepest part of grip. Guess I was close just eye balling so far.


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[Bvas]

Looking good

Like Kenny said, make the grip comfy for you!!  Also, make sure it points well for you. In other words, make sure when you hold the bow out that it not twisted in your hand.

Take your time and don’t rush to finish. And when you peel that tape off ALWAYS go from riser to tip so you don’t lift any more splinters.

[kennym]

""And when you peel that tape off ALWAYS go from riser to tip so you don’t lift any more splinters. ""

Good call Brad, I  was gonna say the same thing but forgot to!!

[Fishinglink]

Tips are shaped and string grooves are cut. Grip is 100% except for final sanding. Radiused shelf to sight window. Shelf needs minor tweaking. Sight window is ready for final sanding. I do like how it ended up with the maple lam giving me a sighting point on the riser above the shelf. Found a 64” string in my oops it’s long bin and got it to 6 1/4” brace and drew it back a bit (didn’t hit full draw). Draws smooth but that’s a relative term for me because I have little to compare to. Hope to be final sanding by Sunday and finishing Monday or Tuesday weather depending. Forgot about Labor Day next weekend so may be a bit behind schedule but got some time.

Question: can someone explain using superglue to fill grain? The riser has a few deeper pot marks that I’d like to fill before finishing and had heard that method mentioned here before. Thanks.


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[kennym]

You can wipe superglue on riser with a latex glove or even a baggie.  Last grain I filled was wenge which is very open pores. I mixed some epoxy and cut it with acetone then wiped . Waay easier on the nose and eyes than superglue and worked well.

[Crooked Stic]

The first thing I hit my corners with is 40 grit riser to tip. Same amount of strokes on each corner. then 120 and on down to whatever grit you finish with. maybe super glue that splinter then sand it so you dont make it worse.

[Fishinglink]

The first thing I hit my corners with is 40 grit riser to tip. Same amount of strokes on each corner. then 120 and on down to whatever grit you finish with. maybe super glue that splinter then sand it so you dont make it worse.

Thanks for the reply. Splinter is already taken care of.


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[Fishinglink]

Took a trip to the local Archery store and got a string (b50). Their traditional bow guy set me up with a few shop arrows that weighed in at 660 grains- full length 2020’s with 5” bananas. Shoots real nice with a little hand shock but no string silencers have been installed yet. Bow is really quiet and very smooth. Shop scale has it at 51#@29”. Still have to final sand it. Had a lazy day today so here’s a strung profile pic to tide everyone over.




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[Fishinglink]

Ok brain trust I understand the rounding the edges however can I just drag the paper left to right from center out? Some one in this thread mentioned sanding the face of the glass. What is the best way to sand the glass? Center to tips with 220? 320? Cooling down here again so gonna get this thing done and this is the part I’ve been dreading.

Thanks in advance Cody.


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[kennym]

Yes , always work from center to tips.  And on riser cut or sand from glass into the wood.

 I use 220 on the glass and actually all the bow.  Some guys go a lot finer but I don't do gloss and 220 is good enough for me.

 It will look milky or cloudy when you sand the clear glass but will clear right up when you spray it.

[Forwardhandle]

When I did my last handle I really took my time when it was ruffed out I took a sharpy with me and shot the bow a bunch and felt the spots that didnt feel right and marked them and carved them off did that 4 or 5 times tell it felt right made a difference in how I shoot !

[Crooked Stic]

You can fill very porus wood with finishing epoxy. Thin 50 percent with acetone. There is some that can be sanded pretty quick. cant think of the name of it right now. Found it.
https://www.rcsuperstore.com/Z-Poxy-Finishing-Resin-12oz-p/paapt40.htm?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsvrhsKOm3QIVBrnACh2ovgrhEAQYASABEgJ-c_D_BwE&Click=32628&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=shoppingengine

[Fishinglink]

Finish is in final stages only 2/3 coats of matte to go. Gonna go get some arrow shafts Tuesday or Wednesday. So far .400 carbons and 2117s shoot pretty good but I want a bit heavier arrow build for this bow. Hoping for 600+ with Magnus stingers upfront. Should drop any whitetail that crosses my path. I’ll get some grouping pics tomorrow while I’m shooting her in.


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