One hole and bolt at a time will guarantee a good fit up. As I mentioned, most of this grinder build is simply transferring holes, drilling & tapping…then repeat.
Tapping the ½-13 hole for the tracking wheel bolt and then transferring that to the tracking arm to determine the exact location to drill for the 5/16” tracking adjustment screw. I will drill/tap the arm for a 5/16” threaded steel insert.
Mounting the handle
The completed arm unit
On to the arm mounting uprights. Drill, tap and countersink for the 3/8” shoulder bolt. Then cut your spacers to length, with .125 worth of washers and a 1” wide tracking arm – I cut my spacers to 1.125
On to the body – mark and drill your holes for the left side. Notice, I also drilled and tapped the left side for threaded steel inserts for my tooling arm locking handles.
Then transfer those holes to the right side (one by one….or at least one by one until you get 3 or 4 holes, then you can knock the rest out all together)
Next is the hard part – or at least a time consuming part depending on what kind of tools you have. You will need to make clearance for the face of the motor that extends beyond the c face. This is not much material to take off and can be easily done with a mill. If you do not have a mill, there are a couple options:
1. You can use your drill press – just mark out all the material you need to remove, drill and then use a chisel to bust out the webbing.
2. You can use a 4.5” hole saw and just drill the whole 4.5” section out. The diameter of this inset portion on a 56c and 145TC face are 4.5”
You could also probably just skip this step and bolt the motor up as is – you would only lose a couple hundred thousands of shaft length on the other side of the plate by not removing this material for a flush face mount. The ring on most of the motors I have seen is flat and would mate just fine with a flat surface.