What’s your ASL-arrow set up?

[Ulysseys]

Pretty much settled on just shooting my Hill Half Breed these days - I’m fact it’s the only bow I now own.  I’m curious what arrow set up you guys are using, post up your bow specs and arrow set up if you’d like.  My Hill is 55# @26” and I’m shooting 45-50 lb spruce arrows cut to 27” with 165 heads.  I may experiment with a slightly stiffer spine or aluminums this spring.

[Ray Lyon]

I’m pretty much shooting tapered cedar shafts spines at bow weight at 28 inch draw with 29 inch arrows and adding 5 pounds of spine shooting 155 grain heads

[monterey]

I find wood to be the most versatile arrow material and what I shoot now is an evolution that will probably continue.  They are always full length from 32"shafts +/- an inch.  Usually 23/64 but not always. I m presently shooting two sets.  One set is tail tapered over ten inches to 11/32 and fletched 3X5.5 with 190 points and spined at 70#.

The other set is full length, 23/64, spine 68#,  rat tail tapered 27", fletched 4X4, 190 points.

I shoot these out of three ASLs.  A 69" 35# @28" slightly reflex Ed throughout.  A 68" 41# @28" slight reflex beyond the fades.  A 66" 44# @28" very slight string follow.

I draw 28 1/4"

These shoot equally well from all three bows although the 35# requires a bit more brace height than I would like.  The 35 is really calling for it's own arrows.

Flight is great even when they don't go where they are told to.

[pavan]

My off season bunny bow, 42 pounds, I think, maybe 44.  Any junked out or tip broke thing that is over 40 spine with what ever caliber casings over at the shooting range, ((the sign says pick up your shells, no one does)), that fit nice over square cut wood arrows. 

[Orion]

My ASLs are about 45# to 51# at my 28-inch draw (low stretch strings).  I shoot .600 and .500 Easton Axis carbons out of them, with 200 to 300 grains up front.  In wood, 11/32 POCs, spined about 50# to 60# depending on point weight.. 

[deerfly]

68" Hill Cheetah58@28, draw length 27.5", 55-60 11/32 tapered douglas fir 28.5" BOP, 160gr points, D97 12 strand string, 6.5" brace height.

[kevsuperg]

HHWesley special 64" 50# @28 .
 GT 3555 (500) 29.25 " ,  100gr brass insert. 145gr zwickey delta 2 blade, couple of 5 gr brass washers,  5" shield cut x 3. 
 Gotta say I shoot pretty well with this combo.
 

[ron w]

All of my ASL bows are 40-45 pounds, I draw 29+", shoot full length 55-60 or 60-65 cedars, or spruce, 125-165 up front. A couple ofthem I have shot Alum. 2016 full length with 125 up front.

[Ulysseys]

Interesting how most guys shoot woods from ASLs...I shot carbon from my recurves but didn’t consider it for my Hill, not that I’m against it, it just never occurred to me.

[Rob DiStefano]

don't have an "ASL" but i used to have a gaggle of AFLs (american FLAT longbows = howard hill, 7 lakes, liberty, etc) and finding a good arrow for any AFL is the same as any stickbow, whether the shaft is a woodie or carbon or aluminum or f'glass.  i'll only use woodies and carbons. 

carbons are by far the easiest as their dynamic spine range is the greatest.  woodies can be the toughest due to their inherent spine issues that can fluctuate with the weather.  i cut all shaft selections to their working length and vary the point weight until i can achieve good, consistent bare shaft flight at 5 to 10 yards.  my current carbons are beman ICS 500's, 28-1/2" long, for mild r/d longbows that brace to a "D" shape of 47 and 43 pounds at my draw length, and a hybrid aggressive 50" r/d MOAB longbow.  for all bows it was like playing goldilocks - 200's were too heavy (weakened the spine, arrow nock landed to the right in a multi-directional butt), 150's were too light (arrow nocks tilted to the left), 175's were Perfect and flew like on rails.  life is good. 

[Pfranchise]

Belcher Union Jack 66” 55@28, 14 strand d97, draw length 27”. Gold Tip Trad XT .600 28.75” BOP, 200gr point 3x5” parabolic fletch.

[pavan]

Of course, i don't try to bare shaft wood arrows,  I just try what i know should be close, The Wapitis and Surewoods I get are very close, if one flies they all fly.  i may be a sissy, but I do not notice much change in the temperature spans that I hunt and shoot in.  I am like Goldilocks, 'Oh, today is too warm, oh tomorrow will be too cold. Maybe this evening it will be just right."

[Overspined]

LOL PAVAN

I’m like pavan, I don’t bare shaft test at all.  I buy a set I know I will be able to tune and I do it with broadheads. 3 arrows same length with 125, 160, and 200 gr broadheads.  Cut an inch and try again. Basically I can see by the flight how they react with the heads vs shaft stiffness and adjust as I like. Typically I like the 160 or 200 gr heads so that’s my end game. When they hit center every time and fly perfect I’m set.

Wood are great, aluminum fine but they get bent, and carbons are nice if you can find a combo to fly from an ASL. I always start really light with carbon out of an asl. I’ve found my favorite arrow is the victory Trad 550 and 450’s.  They spine right in where I want them, and have found better flight than GT or carbon express. 

[pavan]

years back i bought a set of the Alaskan tapered carbons, cut to my standard 27" length.  I intended them for my Super Kodiak, but no matter what front weight i used they curved way right out of the right hand bow.  I can secondary aim, usually an over spined arrow just appears to fly loggy, these went way right.  With 200 grains up front, out of my fastest bow, my 68" yew/bamboo longbow they flew perfect with in a half inch plus or minus my intended draw.  Upped the front weight to 250 grains, not as good.  upped it to 300 grains they hit the bow.  The same happens when I put just a standard judo on them, I can hear the arrow hit the bow and the arrow flight shows that as well.  I tried the same point variations on 60 pound Surewoods and the point weight changes show very little affect.  Out of Hill style longbows, wood seems to be way easier in my case.  Even though I get really good flight in that rather tight parameter of nailing my draw length with 200 grains up front, i am a bit afraid to use them, should I get a shorter than expected draw length, at an inch under my normal draw they fly awful.  The tapered carbons have me baffled as to why they are so sensitive.