Tillering question

[Possum Head]

“I usually save the fades for last and bring the bend back into the fades”
Pat B’s comment from a prior thread. This made a lot of sense to me when I read it as this area of the process comes right off the grip. I’m curious how many of you more experienced guys employ this approach.

[Roy from Pa]

Hate to agree with that old coot, but I do the same..

 

How's the string making going?

[Possum Head]

Roy, ever get this message?


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[Roy from Pa]

I hardly ever use tapatalk but it's most likely just the server is busy.

Computers get funky at times.

[Eric Krewson]

I save the fades for last, they are good place to drop poundage, I almost always come in a bit high on the weight when I have the tiller looking really good.

[Possum Head]

Good to know especially since it’s in a place the Gizmo wants to ride up the handle. Thank y’all!


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[Pat B]

All the leverage on any bow is at the fades so saving that area for the last is why I do it. Even on a glass bow if the fades aren't made just right and not feathered properly the bow will break there. Don't ask me how I know that.     
 Roy, I resemble that remark but I'm more of a merganser than a coot. 

[Wolftrail]

As quoted..    "save the fades for last" 

[Eric Krewson]

I use an orbital palm sander for the final tillering of the fades, it gets rid of any washboard in the grain and makes a nice transition from the limb to the fade.

One common mistake is to scrape the fade from handle to limb which will almost cause a dip at the juncture of the fade and the limb. 

I saw a really nice BBO the other day that was obviously made by an experienced bowyer, it had broken at the bottom of the fade. One sideways glance showed the bowyer had made a fatal dip at the end of the fade instead of a smooth transition.

[gifford, MO]

Eric is spot on re: comment on the 'fatal dip'. Only took me several hinged / broken bows to figure that one out.

[Possum Head]

Can’t thank y’all enough good info here!