New Year- New Bow- New Aiming Style???

[Chain2]

When I started some years ago I shot 3 under instinctive. That worked for awhile. I ordered a new bow and thought I’d learn split but still shot instinctive. I liked that the new bow and shooting split was quieter. Well I have a new bow coming and I want to try a new aiming style trying to improve my accuracy. I’m thinking of split vision. I’m going to order Mr Hills book and I have Ferguson’s. I’m hoping my eyes will be good enough to pull it off. BUT..,
How do you accommodate the difference in arrow length from field tip to broad head ?
How accurate does your range estimation need to be ?
What about shooting up or downhill?
I probably shouldn’t be fixing something that isn’t broken but I’d like to improve my accuracy beyond 25 yds and I’m thinking this might be the best option. Thanks Guys.

[McDave]

Nothing wrong with learning new aiming methods, but there is really no connection between an aiming method and a bow, except what you make of it.

I like my arrow length to be the same between field tips and broadheads, because arrow length does affect point of impact (POI) if you use the tip of the arrow to aim.  That said, there will be some small difference between the broadheads and field points because of the different length of each, even if they are the same weight and are mounted on the same length shafts, but it shouldn’t be enough to throw you out of the kill zone if your form is otherwise good.

If you want to learn split vision, which is what I use, range is estimated subjectively, rather than in yards or meters.  The better your range estimation ability is, the more accurately you will be able to shoot, but range is estimated by thinking, “the arrow point looks right THERE” rather than, “I think the range is 27 yards, so I need to have a gap of 24”.”  The most important thing is to always focus on the spot you want to hit with the arrow point in your out of focus peripheral vision.  If you let your focus drift to the arrow point, it’s best to let the shot down and start again.

Differences in shooting downhill or uphill are minimized if you keep your shoulders and torso aligned in the magic T, by bending and tilting at the waist, rather than lowering or raising your bow arm.  That said, there are still differences, and you need to practice uphill and downhill shots until you figure out what adjustments (if any) you personally need to make.

[Chain2]

Thanks Mc Dave.

[reddogge]

If your anchor is high enough you don't actually see the point. You see the round arrow at the junction of the arrow and the back of the point, whether it be field point or broadhead. You can see the broadhead blades but I don't use them for aiming purposes. I shoot a gap as you can tell. Instinctive shooters don't need to worry about these things.

For range estimation it all depends on if you are sitting in a chair as in a blind, standing on a shooting line as in 3-D, or in tree stand. I find the arrow flies pretty flat 10-20 yards but will fall off past 20. 25 yards I have to aim slightly higher but past that my target, a tiny Sika deer, is too small to try for.  I try to envision 10 paces or yards and then double or triple, etc. The easiest is from a tree stand and the hardest is from a chair on the ground. For hunting situations, I use a rangefinder and shoot objects out to 25 yards from my stand or seat. Forget purism, go for accuracy.

[Chain2]

Roger that. I use carpenter range finding. I try to estimate how many 2 x 4 x 16’s it is away (5yds each). I usually come close but after 30 it gets tougher. Thank you.

[reddogge]

Great, whatever system works for you. I do shoot longer distances in 3-D where I estimate distance. For me, visually anything over 20 yards appears different so I start my visualizing and and range estimation. Sometimes it's visualizing 20 yards and doubling it for 40 or 15 yards and doubling it for 30.