Salvaged carbons - ready for stumping!

[Woodpuppy]

I’ve been shooting Gold Tip traditionals since I restarted archery about 4 years ago. The only arrows I’ve broken so far have been from hitting trees/stumps or steel in the 3D targets; the nock end splits a little, and an otherwise perfect arrow is done. So I figured I’d try to reinforce and reuse a couple. What do I have to lose? They’re already broken. So I cut some lengths off an Easton 2219. They fit over the GT 400s nicely. 2” lengths to reinforce the front of the arrow, and 1/2” for the nock end. The 2” length should give extra support to the split end, and the insert is installed with Big Jim’s quick stick hot melt. The short piece on the nock end should stop future splits. I did one arrow with the hot melt and the other with epoxy. Stripped the fletching off with a serrated Spyderco and glued them on the other end. Now the cresting looks goofy.

Worst case, they fail on impact. Away from my face. And I’m out an hour of time messing with archery gear. Best case? I have some tough arrows I’ll enjoy trying to destroy!

[McDave]

Looks great!

I assume they will be stiffer than arrows of the same length made only with a carbon shaft, because the carbon will bend along its entire length, while the footed ones don't bend much in the footed area.  You could bare shaft tune them to see if this is true, and decide what, if anything, you want to do about it.

I think we all have the same problem with carbon shafts: we shoot them until we either lose them or they hit something hard and start to peel like a banana.  I solved this problem by having a friend with a draw length an inch shorter than mine.  He loves to get my arrows that have started to split.

[Woodpuppy]

I don’t know how the stiffness will work out. I forgot to weigh the ~2” lengths of 2219, but I can cut off another piece and weigh it. Since I’m adding weight to the front, I backed the point weight down to a 145. I’m guessing they ought to fly about like they did before with 175 gr points. The weight added to the nock end stiffens them though, right? Guess we’ll see.

[flyonline]

I did the same on my GT trad 340's to increase weight and toughness - but I did mine with hobby brass tubing on the front end only. Even piledriving into our steel gate, hardwood gate posts and glancing blows on the same I've only lightly split a nock end on one of them after quite a few knocks and had to resort to an axe to get a couple of points out.

Be interested to see how the aluminium comes up, my brass ones are polished super smooth from hundreds of shots into a cardboard target.

[McDave]

I think you would want to at least maintain the same point weight you were shooting before, to make up for the added stiffness of the 2219 sleeves, but this is something that would be best decided by testing them yourself.

[Trenton G.]

Looks good. I've got a few I need to do that with. Depending on the length of the insert, I don't know how much it will affect the stiffness since that part of the arrow isn't bending anyways. Looks like the footings are pretty long though so they might affect it a little.

[kwc]

so you fliped the arrow around , so the split end is the nock end, where all the force is applied when you relase?

[Woodpuppy]

so you fliped the arrow around , so the split end is the nock end, where all the force is applied when you relase?

Nope. On these, the nock ends are what originally split. So I reinforced the split end with the longer footing and glued the insert in; its now the point end. The undamaged ends are also reinforced to prevent future splitting, and they are now the nock ends.

[M60gunner]

I have repaired the nock ends of carbons before. I use on the 500 spine the nock insert and aluminum sleeve. I use epoxy (slow cure). Then I clean up the insert and install a glue on nock. I foot my carbons when I make them. If they break it’s usually behind the foot.

[McDave]

I’ve found that whipping the nock end of the shaft with serving pulled tight and covered with superglue works well for incipient cracks.  I’ve never had one of these fail after hundreds of shots, although the arrow is usually old anyway after you start getting a crack on the nock end, and probably won’t last much longer anyway.

This wouldn’t work on the point end, because it would quickly wear out from being shot into a target, but it really doesn’t get much wear on the nock end.

[Woodpuppy]

M60, you’re installing an adapter for a glue on nock? And keeping the split end at the nock? How long do they last after that repair? What are you using to foot 500 carbons?

McDave, I thought about doing that too. Looks like it works and you don’t have to strip fletching off the shaft.

I may start footing the nock ends of all my GTs. And I’m wanting to try Big Jim’s new Dark Timber shafts. I’ve got another dozen 400 blems, but I’m on my last 5 500s.

[blacktailbob]

I've done the same thing as McDave. I used 20 lb braid line and wrapped it the same way I would a guide on a fishing rod. Then soaked it with superglue.
Also have well over a 100 shots on the two I wrapped near the nock. Did one by the tip and it also is holding up fine.

[M60gunner]

Woodpuppy, no, I don’t cut off the split end. When I glue in the nock insert I open up the crack and get epoxy in there. I add the insert then put a clamp on it. I use Saran Wrap to keep the glue from sticking to the clamp. After I clean up the mess I add the sleeve. Agian with epoxy. For the collar I use 2213 pieces. For foots I use 2114. I know the chart says 2117 but the “woodgrain” pattern adds to the diameter of the shaft to give me to many headaches getting them on.

[Woodpuppy]

Just a quick follow up, these fly just like the unmolested 400s with 175gr points. But while messing around today I found a 340 GT with a 250 gr point flies superbly out of my bow! Quiet and true. Think I’ve stumbled on the right arrow for this bow. If that’s so, a 250gr cutthroat ought to be perfect!

[mec lineman]

woodpuppy, does the difference in thickness at the footing catch or bump on your shelf or sideplate material. ive got some 1916 cut for some 600 axis.

[Woodpuppy]

I hadn’t noticed... now that you have me thinking about it I’ll get someone to look while I draw. Since they’re 32” shafts and I draw nearly 31”, they must ride onto the Velcro on the shelf a little. The Velcro doesn’t cover the whole shelf though so maybe they just miss, or perhaps the Velcro is so soft it doesn’t matter. They’re not any noisier than the unfooted shafts.

[Hud]

Have you tried a few wraps of reflective tape at the nock end? And heavy inserts that are longer at the point?