Form and false weak?

[Vabowman]

I am getting back to shooting my recurve after two years. Same bow, same arrows and tip weight. Brace height is set at spec. I get a weak arrow flight with bare shaft. I went through the process of tuning the bow to the correct arrows two years ago and I had the field points flying with the broad heads out to 18 yards back then . For giggles, I wanted to see how the bare shaft flew the other day. I consistently got a weak reading. After I realized I should not not be canting the bow with a bare shaft it got a bit better but still weak. Could my lack of good form give me a false weak?

[McDave]

I check for false weak by seeing if a progression of spines gives the expected results.  With aluminum or carbon arrows, I pick point weights on each side of the one I want to use.  If you shoot bare shafts with 100, 125, 145 and 200 grain points, each one should appear weaker than the previous one.  And/or use different spined or length of shafts if you have that option.  If you ever make a change that you think should result in a weaker shaft, like go from a 145 to a 200 grain point, and it gives a stiffer indication instead, then you should suspect a false weak.

Form errors can mask bare shaft results by giving inconsistent results, including false weak.  Or, if you haven't learned to come to full draw with a good release, your test results could be invalid even if consistent because they are measuring a situation that will change in the future as your form improves.

[Vabowman]

ok, thanks. that makes sense. my form is bad because of the lay from shooting. When I had good form 2 years ago I was able to see great arrow flight with bare shaft and have bare shat, fletched field points and fletched broadheads all hit same POI. nothing has changed with the set up. Im just going to keep shooting and work on my form

[Vabowman]

what about using a clicker? are they helpful? any shame in using one?

[McDave]

No shame.  I and many other traditional archers I know from Tradgang have tried clickers from time to time.  I don't think a clicker really does you any good if you don't have a good handle on your draw length, because you may be training yourself to short draw the bow.  Better to train yourself to get as much expansion as possible with each shot.

Almost all elite target archers use some form of a clicker.  To them, missing their draw length by 1/8” is a big deal.  Some hunters use them, but not many.  There are too many variables in the field with position and environment to be able to control draw length to that precise of a degree.  If you wait until the game is well within range, and your arrow hits at the top or the bottom of the kill zone rather than the middle, the animal is still just as dead.

But experiment with one anyway.  There's no other way to find out whether you're going to like one or not.  In fact, if you'll send me a PM with your address, I’ll send you one in a package I never opened that I used to keep for a spare (they do break occasionally).

[Vabowman]

Thank you sir! I was going to use one back when I first started but I managed to get quite proficient out to about 15 yards. I will ponder that a bit more. But I think you are right...I need to find the solid anchor and keep repeating that

[Vabowman]

ever heard of using a small kisser button on trad bow? would that be an option..I have always used one along with a peep on my compounds. I know you can't use a peep on the recurve but I assume you could use a kisser or some serving as reference.