Wood Shafts

[oldfartfarmer]

I dont know if im in the write wroom or knot,

But kick me out if im not,

Ive got a 40#cabalas frontier Longbow I just bought  Ive got a 28.5/29inch draw
the store guy set me up with carbon shaft arrows, Stalker extreme 400 55/70 8.4GPI
(I have no idea what any of that means)
and i went home happy and doing ok shooting them, Hey Im learning, Im new,

so I bought a fletching jig and refletched them--why you might ask,,,because I could,,,
NOW
I want to buy wooden shafts and build my own for this bow,
how do I figurmajigit out what size diameter shafts to buy, what wood, ? 
and who on here sells them

then how do i figure out what weight arrow heads to glue onto them ? looking to do 2 blade and 3 blade, and target points
feather length ?

thanks all
for putting up with my newbie questions

John

[stillhunter]

www.arrowskp.com should get you started John. Kelly knows his stuff. Wealth of info out there but you have to start with some basics. Have fun.

[Pat B]

The spine marked on wood shafts is for a 28" finished arrow with a 125gr point. For each inch over 28" you subtract 5# of spine weight. For each 25 grains of point weight over 125gr subtract 5# of spine weight. So if you buy shafts that are spined 50# but cut them to 30"(for your 29" draw)their effective spine will be 40#. A 125gr heads won't change that spine for the finished arrow. I shoot either Grizzly 125gr(2 blade) or Wensel Woodsman 125gr(3 blade) with good results.

[BAK]

And your Cabela's carbons are spined way to stiff for that bow.

[fujimo]

i  agree with BAK
 you are probably drawing about 43# at 29"- you should be using a #50 spine wooden shaft with 125Gr points.
those 400's are WAAAAY too stiff- depends a wee bit on, whether the guy who set you up- left them full length or trimmed them.
 if they were left at 32" , and shooting out of your 29" draw they would significantly reduce the dynamic spine enough that they might work ok.

in otherwords, if you had a 43# draw at 29" and wanted to shoot a 32" arrow you would need about a #60 spine shaft to get proper flight, if your bow is cut closer to center, and some big ol, fletching, and a heavy point, those #70 spine carbons could be made to work, in a pinch- not ideal- but could work!

[Petrichor]

Simple way to begin with wood. If your bow is 40 lbs I'd either by an arrow sample pack and test spines 40-45 45-50 to try with 125 grain head.  To keep it ultra simple I buy 1 spine above weight of your bow so 45-50 stick to a 125 grain head to start and adjust length if arrow by 1/4 inch till they fly right. Easier to start by messing with one variable at a time.   Also watch clay hayes arrow tuning 101 on YouTube.
Ps cabelas should have probably put you on a 600 spine.
Nothing feels as good as shooting a wood arrow. You will be addicted.

[oldfartfarmer]

He never cut my shafts, there 32inches from front to end of nock no blade/tip
ive been using my 100gain tips  there a larger diameter of the shaft
but i was too cheap to buy any until I figured out what weight to get,
Ive been shooting at my shed--barnboard-resawn pine wood, 20 feet (please dont laugh) and im hitting within 4 inches of where
my eyes point unless I burp,fart, or hold too long, then i start shaking and let it fly as the point comes along,
the shaft isn't corkscrewing,

I want to shoot a solid traditional 3 blade VPA 3
and target points,,Bodkins are cool looking, LOL
and yes I do have a Target bag,,

[Captain*Kirk]

Start here:

https://www.3riversarchery.com/pdf/ArrowCharts.pdf

Use the 3rd (bottom) chart for wood shafts.
Buckle you seat belt...it's a wild ride and extremely addictive!