FOC question

[TooManyHobbies]

Thanks McDave. My nocks were tight, and couldn't loosen it with hot water, so I changed it. Fit is perfect, one tap and it comes off.
I also changed my brace height to 6 5/8" from 6.25 (Kohannah recommends 6.5 - 6.75). Tried increasing nock point to 1/2 and 5/8 as you advised. Still nock high (before and after changing brace).
So, I put it back to 3/8".
Weird thing is, sometimes it's still nock right/high, sometimes straight/high, and sometimes left/high. I'm assuming it's my release that is causing left/right nock. The only consistency is nock high.
Canting the bow seems to help, which is how I shoot usually. More vertical gets the mixed results. 

[McDave]

Okay, so it seems that 3/8” is a good nock point.  It could be that further reducing your nock point could reduce the nock high, but I would be reluctant to go below 3/8”.  Or it could be that your nock high is a form issue.  I copied this from a post I made just a short while ago on PowWow:

The following form issues can result in nock high:

1.  When gripping the string split fingers, pressing down on the nock with the index finger causes a bow in the arrow shaft which rebounds when the arrow is released, often caused by high string elbow.  The cure is to find a string elbow position that doesn’t result in downward pressure on the nock, and focus on drawing with the back muscles, as drawing with arm muscles can make it difficult to relax the string hand, and thus exacerbate downward pressure on the nock, among a variety of other sins.

2.  When gripping the string 3 under, put most of the finger pressure on the index finger, and very little pressure on the ring finger.

Your inconsistencies in nock-right nock-left could likewise be a form issue, or you could be getting a false weak.  I believe you said in an earlier post that you were usually getting a stiff indication, and a false weak is when a bare shaft that is too stiff rebounds off the strike plate and shows nock left.  If you are able to find a shaft that is weak enough that it always shows weak, then you can work backwards from there.

[Captain*Kirk]

Two questions:

1) Have you tried cock feather in to see if that changes anything?

2) Are your shafts straight?

I cooked up a batch of woodies a year ago. They were straight and grouped fairly well but after the winter layoff I started getting fliers. I started marking the 'flyer' arrows with tape and sure enough, the taped arrows flew erratically. Checking them on my roller I found they were no longer straight. A couple shots with the Ace roller and they grouped again.

[TooManyHobbies]

McDave, I do shoot split finger, should I try three under? I put the second lower nock point back on, didn't help. I do believe I try to keep my forearm straight back, my elbow might be high. And yes, there are more right nock than left. I have a 72# spine I can try. I believe that will be plenty weak.

Capt. No I didn't try cock feather in yet. Still trying to get the bare shaft flying straighter. But I will try that, it works on my recurve.
I'm getting a very slight wobble when I spin them, more than when I got them. Guess I'll need an arrow spinner and roller too.

I'll let you know what else happens. Thanks.

[Silent footed]

I made a spine tester. Cost me nothing, basically. Two cup hooks spaced 28" apart (26" for carbon or aluminum), centerline between the two marked, printed out a ruler I found online and filled a container with lead shot to total 1 pound (container and hook included...total weight). I found a chart online that calculates spine by deflection in inches. Not the greatest but gets me in the ballpark.

I'm going to do this!

[Captain*Kirk]

I'm going to do this!

Let me know if you have questions or need info. PM is fine...

[moebow]

Sorry Captain Kirk,  Your numbers are backwards.  26" supports for wood and 2# weight.  28" for aluminum and carbon with a 1.94# weight.  IF you are doing this for yourself, Okay but what you posted is NOT standard, at all!

Arne

[Captain*Kirk]

Sorry Captain Kirk,  Your numbers are backwards.  26" supports for wood and 2# weight.  28" for aluminum and carbon with a 1.94# weight.  IF you are doing this for yourself, Okay but what you posted is NOT standard, at all!

Arne

Arne, I stand corrected! It's been a while since I built the jig so I was going by memory and wasn't at home when I replied, but just checked and you are right on the money. I hope nobody ran out and built one using erroneous info...

[TooManyHobbies]

So, I tried everything advised. The 75gr woodie weight weakened the spine of the bare shaft quite a bit with the 125 point. I hadn't touched any of the broadheads yet, so I figured try cock feather in. Before doing that, I shot them all to see which head shot best before switching to CF in. One shot pretty good. I took that one and adjusted the BH about an 1/8th of a turn. Shot again at 10 yards, right on. Moved back to 18 yards, dead center. No left/right/up/down. Turned all of the rest to match and voila, they all hit the kill zone of my archery deer target at 18. I really don't like to hunt past 15, so I think they will be good to go. So, all that testing and just had to turn them. Learned a lot though, and wrote down what worked and didn't for next time.
Thanks Capt. and McDave, really appreciate the help.

[Captain*Kirk]

Glad to be of assistance!