DAP WoodWeld Resin Glue Questions

[bdsmith1]

I've really been getting into building with boo and osage now that I have a local source for Tonkin and billets.  I'm used to gluing on hickory backings over some equally wide belly wood with little to no problem using TBII.  Glue lines have never been an issue.  Now that I'm using the Dean Torges method of cutting my bow design into the boo, then gluing it to a billet, I'm having a hard time getting edge pressure, and my gluelines are showing it.  I want to try the method of using the innertube to wrap it up real tight to get some pressure on those edges, but I know TBII wont cure wrapped up.  I grabbed a tub of DAP WeldWood Resin Glue because I can get it locally.  I know unibond can be covered while curing, but what about DAP?  I'm worried because to activate the glue, you have to add water.  Anyone have any experience?  I'm just trying to find out before I go building a longbow sized hotbox.  No heat in the shop, so using the epoxy will have to wait until I can get the temp in spec during the glue up.  Thanks in advance.

Brian

[Crooked Stic]

I dont build those types of bows but I say the DAP would not be the best choice.

[Forwardhandle]

I think PatB on here has some exsperience using that type  glue , you might want to PM him !

[Roy from Pa]

X's 2 for Pat.

[Mad Max]

make sure your boo has not cupped  during your dry run layup.

[Eric Krewson]

I have not used weldwood but a lot of folk have and like it, Pretty sure Pat has used it a bunch.

It is unlikely you have Tonkin cane for backing, the real stuff doesn't get much bigger around than 3", too small for bow backing.

I never heard that TB wouldn't cure under pressure, are you sure? I glue blocks of wood together with TB all the time, tightly clamped.

[Mad Max]

Eric if you wrap it with tire tube (is what he said) it doesn’t want to dry 

[KenH]

As  long as you aren't totally enclosing the glue up with rubber or whatever, Titebond will dry.  But it takes more time

[Pat B]

I've used Weldwood Plastic Resin a bunch and it is a great wood to wood glue, very similar to Urac. I used tire tube bands without issues. Even though it does use water to activate it is a chemical reaction that cures it so wrapping it doesn't matter. You may have to give it a few days after glue up so the moisture from the glue has a chance to move out of the wood. It will have to cure at at least room temp.

[Eric Krewson]

I have made at least 50 bamboo osage bows, I used C clamps for my glue up. If you have your mating surfaces as flat as they need to be you glue lines will be perfect. Your bambo should just about have a knife edge, if so it will easily conform to the core wood. If you have it too thick it will be harder to get it in place.

I make clamp pads out of scrap bamboo that conform to the oval shape of the bamboo back.

[Eric Krewson]

I have never heard of anyone having problems with an inner tube wrap while glueing up, gluing is a chemical reaction, the glue cures, it doesn't dry.

My glue lines, handle pieces and bamboo;

[bdsmith1]

Eric, TBII and other PA glue requires ventilation to cure thoroughly it at least in the time frame on the bottle .  I found this out the hard way. Delamination of my first glue up devistated me.

I've used used c-clamps with perfect mating surfaces (planed, sanded with granite beam, then toothing planed).  I'm below 1/8th inch thick with knife edges (been cut by em, OUCH!), But for some reason, even with 40 clamps or so, and blocks under the clamps, I'm having issues. I'm gonna shoot some CA in the gaps, but I just like pretty glue lines lol.

Gonna try the inner tube! Hopefully it's gonna work out.

I'll post results.  I'm on 12hr night shifts this week, so it may be a few days.  Thanks.

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[bdsmith1]

You know, I'm not sure if it's Tonkin cane.  I just assumed. Any body know?  Good thick walls, node spacing is great once you get a few feet of the ground. These things are 25-30ft tall easy.

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[Eric Krewson]

Nice bamboo patch, definitely not tonkin. Mosa has wider node spacing, I cut mine form a local patch, the owner said it was giant timber bamboo also known as mandrake.

The land changed hands and the new owner was giving all the bamboo away on the Facebook Marketplace and clearing the land, some was 8" in diameter. I was a day late and a dollar short but did manage to pick up a few pieces from his burn pile.

[Stagmitis]

Dedfinately not Tonkin!

I dont think the rescorcinol glue of yesteryear is the same as the weldwood of today. It was a fine glue and had much less creep than smooth on for wood to wood application.

I have used urac (unibond today) for the core glueup on my hill bows and smooth-on for the outer glass. Always got better performance especially with natural bamboo that wants to take a set more so than maple,cedar,elm,yew for example.

[Pat B]

Rescorcinol and Weldwood Plastic Resin are two completely different glue types.

[bdsmith1]

DAP is just powdered Urea Formaldehyde resin like Urac or unibond. Major upside in powdered version is indefinite shelf life as long as it's properly stored.  It's way Cheaper and easier to find too.  Down side is that you use water to activate.  Called casemite across the pond iirc. Water likes dry wood, so that's why I started this thread.. I wanted to find out how those complications played out on glue up. With a water based glue, you don't typically want to seal it off from the open air while curing.

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[Flem]

There are a lot of options when it comes to cold curing epoxy. I think I would skip the adhesives than you are unsure of, unless you are gathering info for future reference. Or you could do like Ritchie(Forwarhandle)
and wrap your blank with an electric blanket for a faster cure.

[Pat B]

"You may have to give it a few days after glue up so the moisture from the glue has a chance to move out of the wood."
I do this with both Weldwood and TBIII because both glues are carried with water. I haven't found that this adversely affect glue lines. I don't do many glue ups but I've always gotten better glue lines using tire tubes cut into long strips to bind the components as the glue cures. I do leaves openings in the wrap so the glue up breaths but with the Weldwood I don't think it is necessary because it cures differently from TBIII.