25” draw ?

[starshooter]

Just an update: I have been going back to my practice bow as I do from time to time to work on form basics. The bow is 25# and a breeze to shoot. I am right now focusing on the rotational / angular draw and the anchor point. I am finding that my draw is actually, gasp! 25”! My shots are much smoother and fly consistent with less skewing into the target. I know that one should not obsess on the dl but concentrate on the rotation into the facial reference wherever that maybe. Occasionally I check where the mark hits the riser( I have ink mark on  the arrow.
Is this possible?? I typically shoot my bows at 26” and get inconsistent accuracy.
I know it’s not a strength issue at 20# pounds. Anybody shoot 25” ??

[moebow]

Once again, we'd really have to see to advise.  How tall are you?  But bottom line is you say the arrow is flying well and going where you want it to AND THAT'S what it is all about.

Arne

[starshooter]

I’m 5’ 9” medium build 175 lbs and getting long in the tooth
Age wise ( 71) .

[moebow]

Then, I'd suggest that 25" is about right.  Shooting well is a far better option than messing with your natural form to increase draw length.  It is what it is.

Arne

[Sam McMichael]

I am 69 years old, 5"9" tall, and weigh 180 lbs. My draw length is also 25". It is what it is, but, when tuning, I have to adjust for the stated pondage of my bows at 28" and what I am actually pulling at 25". It has worked out well, though when it comes to arrow tuning (I shoot Hill style bows almost exclusively). I like long wooden arrows, 29" to back of point with 125 grain point. All my bows shoot well with arrow spines that match the 28" stated draw weight. For example, my 53# NM Sheltons do well with 50 -55# spine. My 55# HHA Cheetah takes 55 - 60# spine. Draw length is not an appreciable factor for me, but I was a bit surprised when I first learned I draw 25" instead of 27" I had always assumed. No wonder tuning used to be so difficult.

[starshooter]

I recognized the tuning issues last summer when I was trying carbons. Aside from being expensive I found that they were whole different zoo animal.  45-55 tapered cedars 28”bop fronted with 125 gr points worked ok for me when shooting  my ASL. Aluminum is what I use now with my recurve.
I have since then discovered after all these years the recurve. Love  the grip and
feel of alignment that the recurve offers. Thanks!

[starshooter]

Never ceases to amaze me that
there  is a wide variety of people with unlikely draw lengths and poundage.
The first time any one spoke to me saying that I was over-drawing, my masculinity was insulted some what. That was many years ago. I had a lot to learn!

[the rifleman]

Arne's assessment and advice is spot on.  Ive been shooting and hunting w very light weight bows.  During our 5 spot league this year, i developed what i thought was tp.  I was collapsing and throwing the arrow a foot to the left ( im a lefty).
My friend suggested a clicker.  I had it on the bow for 10 minutes when my problem was clear-- i had been overdrawing and then sinking forward and then collapsing.  I had been drawing a bit over 27".  I focused on bone on bone alignment and found my fingers near the front of my mouth ( they had been going back on my face much further).  I also found it was again easy to keep pulling, the shot was lined up and the left and right dispersion was cleaned up.  Ihave a 26" draw length--but what's important is that i have good alignment at that length.  Find what puts you in proper alignment and don't worry about inches.

[starshooter]

John that’s exactly what I am finding out .I am drawing 25” but I am still in denial
I don’t want to rush to conclusions but a couple more sessions will confirm
my suspicion. Alignment is very important to me and one of the problems is
rotating the draw ( angular)- does the bow stay exactly where you align it prior to or does it roll into the alignment as you draw??
I know where the exact alignment is as  far as the grip is concerned . I can feel it.
Problem is that if I try rotating  the bow in my hand as I draw I find I have to fumble around  to get the handle grip perfectly seated. It affects my shot. If I align before the draw I then draw the string at an angle there might be a torque problem?
Do I rotate the bow or does the bow handle stay in alignment prior to the draw??
Thanks !





 

[starshooter]

I am drawing at angle with a set arm straight out. There is zero pulling effort and my anchor is where is. After that I work on the conclusion of the shot which a whole anther enchilada. I am with a light recurve  27# so don’t poundage is an issue. 🙏

[the rifleman]

Hi Charles.  I learned the rotational draw from Arnes video.  As he shows my bow hand is pointed to the target, but the arrow is pointed well to the right ( im a lefty).  Drawing the string brings the bow around in my hand and the arrow in line w the target.  If this doesn't happen, you may be gripping the bow too much.  The act of drawing the string will rotate the bow.  Maybe focus on hand placement--- another great Arne video.  He's right-- get your form worked out and good things happen-- all i have to worry about then is shot execution ( aided again by alignment) and elevation.  Best of luck.

[starshooter]

A follow to last week’s posts on 25”draw. Yep, I draw angularity to 25 “ and I am quite satisfied with my efforts with the rotation. After I hit anchor.. then what? Take a deep breath and expand? Do I throw my elbow back? I drop the string and keep moving  the drawing hand back as well? ( neutralizes the forward creep if nothing else?) As far as possible I can tell when I “expand “as I drop the string the arrow has more energy and will skew straight most times . Other times i throw my elbow
Around back hoping that I add more power to the shot and arrows are not cosistent. Mind you I do NOT pull at all and my hand needs to be like a dishrag .  I also keep
A loose grip on the bow. Thanks for patience.

[the rifleman]

I usually don't "hold" too long at anchor.  Once my string arm is back and close to being aligned my sight picture is set.  My final motion is to bring my string arm elbow directly behind me and in line with the bow hand.  This is not a forceful move (I'm not trying to get more force into the shot), but more of a precise move to final alignment.  Once done the arrow is on its way.  I'm currently not using any ancillary "psychotriggers"---the elbow going back into alignment sends the message that I'm good to go and the arrow is gone at that point.

Not sure if this is technically correct, but it is what is working for me.

[Drywood]

     After 20-25 years of compound bows I changed my life and quit. Rotor Cuff blewup ,Doctor rehab all that mess. In rehab I said can I try the fiberglass kids bows ? They said OK but prove the Draw weight with us first.
     That got me into recurves and then collecting old Bear bows .As a member here all I ever look at was Trad History. I have shot stick bows for 9 years .I am 5 foot 4" so 25 inch draw was what I lived with. I shot apples at 30-35 yard with sights and peep on the compound. I shot big pumkins at 25 yard with the stickbow. Real BAD. I shot the bow 90 degrees vert ,I shot 30 or 40 different bows 45,40,35,30 lb  ...All bad.
     Now one bow summer one bow winter both 40lb at my 25 inch.Now I cant my bow. now I watch my target. If I shoot 6 arrows ,1 will hit the golf ball and the rest scare it . I am happy
           this is like very hard  thanks 

[SlowBowKing]

My draw is in the 25-26” range (need to measure it more accurately). I’m 5’7”, and I realize this just comes with the territory. I know this kills my poundage on my 45# @ 28” bow, so I try to focus even more on form, focus, and shot placement. I also shoot a fairly heavy, good FOC hunting arrow!

[Wilderlife]

I'm 5'7'' as well and I find my draw length has a lot to do with confidence and how tired I am from lifting weights and/or shooting my bows. The most I've drawn consistently is 27", but at other times my draw would only be about 25". It's not something I notice when shooting at all; I normally watch some video I take of myself and realise then.

I know we can't do much about being short and having a small wingspan, but it does make you think about exactly how heavy the bows are at your poundage and if this would be adequate to hunt with. My main bow is 54# @ 28 and I have just assumed that I'm pulling about 50#, but I don't know. As Arne said, it doesn't matter as long as I'm putting the arrows where I want, but I'm still new to the whole thing and have a lot of learning to do.

I think I'll get a chance to shoot with Tom Clum in March so I'm looking forward to a professional giving me some advice.