clear coat on carbons?

[jrchambers]

im trying to dress up some well used gold tip trads,  i used to use wraps but i have recently got into woodies so i like the paints, the paint i use is not tough enough by itself and the metalics i use run bad under poly,  laquer has been my coat of choice on wood,  what have some of you used on carbons

[OkKeith]

JR,

I put a "cap dip" and cresting on my carbons using the inexpensive Testors brand model paints. I do the cap with spray on (I recomend a white primer coat to save on weight) and the cresting with the regular small bottles. I don't do any clear coat and the paint seems to stay on fine.

I use the enamel, not the acrylic. You have to use paint thinner for clean up but I think it is tougher. The spray cans are about 4 bucks and the small bottles are around .89 cents each. I can post some pics if you would like to see how it looks.

I clean the shafts using acetone prior to painting (again, I think this helps the paint to stick better) and let them dry good.

It has also been my experience that the metallic paints will run when any solvent based clear coat is applied. I tried doing the metallic over the clear coat but that was not a durable solution. I solved my problem, I quit using them.

Like I said, holler if you would like to see what they look like.

OkKeith

[bow loving man]

yes we would like to see keith...thanks

[Leo L.]

***Hollering***  Pics please?

[OkKeith]

Will do. Can shoot the pics tonight and post tomorrow.

OkKeith

[jrchambers]

i use an enamel as well i cant get testors so i use krylon.  i just cant imagine that it wouldnt flake off with a little contact,  ill give the rustoleum spray on laquer a try.

[OkKeith]

JR,

Let me make sure I understand what you mean. Are you clear coating then putting on color, or color then clear coat? I haven't used the krylon, but I guess one enamal is much like another. I do use the low gloss stuff. I really have had no problem with the paint coming off. The clear coat my be lifting the color (or vise versa). That my be causing the paint to flake.

Might try a light sanding, then clean with the acetone. Maybe there is some schmutz on the shafts that is keeping the paint from sticking.

The only time i have had the paint come off is when I shot a pig a little far forward, when i found the arrow you could see where the dang thing had chewed on the arrow to get it loose.

I will post some pics tomorrow for ya.

OkKeith

[jrchambers]

paint then coat.  im having no trouble getting it to stick,  i like to use metalics and without a clearcoat it is easy to pick of with a fingernail.  i just did some rusto laquer and it works fine.  i just used one thin coat, question answered thanks

[Jason R. Wesbrock]

I use a light coat of satin finish Minwax spray-on poly.

[OkKeith]

Good deal JR. I never have tried any over coats. One thing I did think of though is, if you are painting the wood grained carbons, they have an additional "layer" (I think the wood grain pattern is sort of baked on). This may be causing some problems. All the ones I have painted are the regular black shafts.

Jason, are you using the water based spray poly, or other? Early on an error I learned from is non water based over water based don't do so well. Water based over non does OK but smears some.

I will still post some pics tomorrow for all the other folks.

OkKeith

[Keuka]

Krylon makes a Fusion sprey paint for plastics. I use it on my Gold Tip Trads and clear coated on top. I paint the entire shaft bright yellow so I can find it stump shooting.

I've also used florescent orange and clear coat. I beat my stumpers and the paint is still there. I have some chips but as I said, these shafts have been pounded for over a year and they still glow. If you clear coat use several light coats as it will run.

[Jason R. Wesbrock]

Keith,

I use the standard Minwax stuff. I believe it's water based.

[Dave Huff]

I crown and clear with Valspar spray and crest with testors, no problems as of yet.  I've done 8 or 9 dozen arrows so far.

[snag]

I shoot the wood grain CEs. I have crown dipped them with success with proper prep. But I didn't dip a sealer over that because I thought it would look funny with just the ends dipped...? And I didn't want to dip the whole arrow for two reasons..1)I didn't want to prep the whole arrow and 2)If I didn't prep the whole arrow it would probably orange peel or worse.  I crown dip with an industrial paint from Sherwin Williams and then crest and it holds up just fine.

[WestTnMan]

Originally posted by Jason R. Wesbrock:
I use a light coat of satin finish Minwax spray-on poly.

Same here. I use Rustoleum brand enamel paint straight on a clean shaft then seal with above. I use Goat Tuff to fletch with. Saunders MPV didn't hold too good.

[jrchambers]

what is that goat tuff stuff? where to get it

[WestTnMan]

It's kind of like super glue. I got it at Sportsman's Warehouse here but they have it at Three Rivers. It is kind of expensive but it works very good. I just couldn't get other glues to stick and someone told me to use Goat Tuff and it works. I shoot almost everyday and haven't lost a feather yet. It also is great for gluing in inserts in carbons. Haven't lost any of those either.