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Author Topic: Building the right arrow  (Read 4944 times)

Offline Baylee

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  • Posts: 84
Re: Building the right arrow
« Reply #20 on: February 22, 2021, 05:22:35 PM »
Rifleman, I guess maybe I’m am miss understanding your posts. Everyone of your  post  on this thread is talking about heavy arrows and poor trajectory or heavy arrows not making much difference. That is not the same as a high FOC arrow, which is what the thread is about. That’s why I said more than once high FOC does not mean super heavy. You responded you understand the Ashby study’s but then again talk of heavy 15gpp arrows, again two separate subjects a lot of people combine for some reason.

 

Offline the rifleman

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Re: Building the right arrow
« Reply #21 on: February 22, 2021, 06:08:50 PM »
Barle, have it your way---im not into debating or semantics.  Doesn't appear youve understood my posts so I can't help you.  Maybe if you back up to the op you'll see why i referenced the downside to a heavy arrow--- the part about stacking inserts... I believe others got my point.  BTW, some of my results can be viewed in the 40-45# harvest thread.
Hope my information helped the OP.  After all he was looking at successful recipes for an arrow build and i shared what has worked best for me.
Again, not interested in arguing with you.

Offline GraniteStater

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Re: Building the right arrow
« Reply #22 on: February 26, 2021, 02:31:06 PM »
I shoot 41@28 and a CE Heritage 75 (670 spine) with a 175 grain point full length bare shafts perfect for me.  They weigh right at 465 grains.  Don't be afraid to try a 700 spine.

Same set up here.  I've been shooting in the 37-43 lb. range for years.  Works great, tunes well in that draw weight range.  CE 75 are overlooked in the 40 lb range, but are a great versatile shaft.  It's all to easy to over spine with carbon arrows.  Full length are about 30.25, you could trim to 29 and easily shoot 200 up front.  (depending on draw length)
1Peter 5:6,7

Offline YosemiteSam

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Re: Building the right arrow
« Reply #23 on: February 26, 2021, 07:12:49 PM »
Play with the 3Rivers calculator.  It's extremely helpful, especially if you already have a setup that is already tuned.  Once you know the dynamic spine you need, you can build new arrows to the specs you want.  Dealing with brand-name carbons really makes it easy.

For whitetails <15 yards away, I think it would be hard to screw it up.  I don't know how much you want to overthink it.  I'm a fan of Ashby's work.  But all in context.  No disrespect to Ashby but the time-tested advice of a well-tuned, sturdy arrow, 8-10 gr per pound, 2 blade COC broadhead has much more real-world research behind it than one man could ever hope to gather.  You can adapt Ashby to that model by increasing FOC, going for 3:1 heads, etc. but I think it's mostly just preference to make us feel better.  Yes, a 300 WinMag will take down a whitetail and is a very powerful and effective round.  But so will a 30-30.  And at whitetail ranges, how much do you want to worry about it?
"A good hunter...that's somebody the animals COME to."
"Every animal knows way more than you do." -- by a Koyukon hunter, as quoted by R. Nelson.

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