Bare shaft Tuning a Hoyt Satori

[Walnut]

Hi All,  I was wondering if i could get some need advice.   Im trying to bare shaf a Hoyt satori with 45lb limbs and a 17" riser drawing back about 26.5".  I've tried gold tip traditional 400's and 500's and with various tip weight...  100,  125,  145,  175 and aslo with a 50 grain insert weight.  No matter what i do my nock is high left when the arrow is in the target and this is from 5 and 10 yards.  If i shoot both arrows fletched the seem to fly true and hit the target square. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

[McDave]

So you're holding about 42#. For me, this would be ideal for a .600 spine arrow with a 100 grain point, although YMMV.  You didn't say what length your .500 spine arrows were, but I would think a full length .500 spine arrow with one of the heavier points you mentioned would be the equivalent of my .600 spine arrow.  However, carbon shafts are very sensitive to length, so if you have cut them back to 27” or 27.5” they might be too stiff regardless of the point weight you're using.

I assume you're a RH shooter?  Since all your combinations are showing weak, and your nock is showing high (I assume you have tried many different nock positions and they all show high?) my guess is that you have either a false weak or a false high or both.  This condition is the result of the arrow shaft recoiling off the strike plate or the arrow rest or both.  A false weak or a false nock high could either be the result of using arrows that are too stiff or a problem with your shooting form.

Shooting form errors that can cause false weak or false nock high include torquing the string or bow or both, and failure to use adequate back tension to get the string elbow lined up behind the arrow.  Too high or too low or inconsistent string elbow can also cause this condition.  As can the use of arm muscles to draw the bow rather than back muscles.

A .600 spine arrow with a 100 grain point, or a .500 spine arrow with a 175 grain point, cut to 29”, and a nock point of 5/8”, can't be that far off, if you just want to shoot for a while and not worry about your form issues right away.

[Roy from Pa]

When bare shaft tuning, shoot a couple bare shafts along with a couple fletched shafts of the same spine, length, etc.

You want the bare shafts to group with the fletched shafts.

Don't worry about the nock orientation.

Below is a great write up on arrow tuning.

https://www.fenderarchery.com/blogs/archery-info/basic-tuning

Here is a good video on tuning.