Finishing my Bingham's take down recurve

[kenboonejr]

I got my limb tip overlays completed yesterday and today I plan on cutting out the riser block and start shaping that.  Once that is done it is time for finishing.  In the Bingham video they didn't have much detail other than to use 50 grit to get rid of rasp marks on the riser then do the limbs with 120 to remove the shiny coating.  Then they said sand everything from 120 to 400.  After that they just hung the 2 limbs and the riser and a dude has a spray can of poly it looked like and put a coat of spray on it.   They didn't have much to say about the whole finishing process other than not to use lacquer.

So one quick question is - is it ok to round the limb edges? I am basically referring to taking the sharp edge off the fiberglass on both sides of the limb as they run from riser to tip.  Is that okay to do?

I have been reading a ton online on different things folks use, but haven't really been able to find a solid process start to finish.  I have spent a lot of time on it so I want to make sure I get the finish right so at least it looks good   

I was wondering what you guys would recommend for the finishing process.  I don't have a spray gun so it will have to be a wipe on application or spray can type application.  As a beginner, what would you guys recommend me to do for this process.  I am sure everyone has their own way and the question is like what brand of truck do you prefer but I would really like to hear your thoughts on this.

In the end I hope to achieve a moderately shiny glass like surface that shows off the wood and will be durable.

Thanks again!

[Flem]

I would forget what Bingham's has to say and just come at it like you would any fine woodworking project.
You definitely want to round all edges, especially the fiberglass. Depending on the riser wood, you might want to fill the pores of the grain. 50 grit is very coarse, you will work as hard to get rid of those scratches as you would from a rasp. I usually go 80-150-220-320-400. I would not take 120 to the fiberglass, 320-400 is enough for the finish to take hold. There is no "shiny coating" on fiberglass, thats your job in finishing.
I'm a finishing snob, so you not having a gun, I would recommend a can of vinyl sealer for first coats and any grain filling, followed by a 2K top coat like SprayMax of similar.

[kenboonejr]

Flem if you are a finishing snob then I definitely want to hear what you have to say   

Yea in the Bingham's video they said that the fiberglass comes coated with a shiny protective finish that the manufacturer puts on there to protect the fiberglass and that you have to sand that off for the finish to adhere to it so I am going to forget what they said.

So as far as a can of vinyl sealer - something like this is what you are talking about?
https://www.amazon.com/Mohawk-Finishing-Products-M102-8000-Sealer/dp/B07NC6TG2T/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=can+of+vinyl+sealer&qid=1629382904&sr=8-12

So after I get to 400 on everything, then spray it with the vinyl sealer.  Do I then hit it with 400 again and spray it again with the vinyl sealer?  How many coats like this do I need to do with the vinyl sealer until I move on to the 2k top coat?  Then how many times do you think I need to hit it with the 2k top coat?  I assume with 400 or 800 or steel wool in between coats?

I saw someone else recently post some pics of their bow that they used 2k on it and it looked really good.

Also, since it is a takedown and I'll spray the pieces individually.. do I need to put some temporary limb bolts in the insert in the riser to keep it from getting clogged from the finish sprays and then just take them out when finished spraying?

Thanks again!

[Crooked Stic]

They say don't use lacquer most of the finishes out there are lacquer based.
Some of the rattle  can wheel finish is pretty good. It is thin tho so you might need some filler first.

[kennym]

The wheel finish is very thin and soaks in a lot.  I use auto clearcoat which is very glossy, then a couple coats of matte wheel finish to dull it down. Same brand ...

[Flem]

You definitely want to sand the glass for mechanical adhesion, just not so hard or for the reason why B'ham stated.
As far as sanding and coats of finish, the best thing you can do , unless you are well versed in the level of finish you like, is to do a control sample. Take scraps of riser wood and glass and go thru the steps. Finishing is much easier if you know what to expect from your materials. That vinyl sealer is correct. Rattle cans always take more coats than uncanned , just because it has to be thinned so much to atomize out of the can. Something to keep in mind.
Assuming you are good to go, I would sand to desired smoothness, hit it with sealer, sand it down flat, hit it again if you have any low spots, sand flat and then top coat. I would not go more than two, 2K top coats and yes, knock it down between coats. I don't use steel wool, but if I did it would only be stainless wool. I just use non-stearated sandpaper. And the most important step........  Rubbing out the finish. I don't think it's possible to get a perfect, immaculate finish off the tip of a gun and certainly not a rattle can. Is it necessary?, no. Is it hard to do?, no.
Does it look awesome? YES  If you you decide to rub out the finish, be sure to get gloss spray. Then you can choose the level of shine you would like to achieve.

[kenboonejr]

I appreciate all the feedback guys.

So Flem - I have the vinyl sealer and the spray max 2k high gloss clear coat in my amazon cart.  Can you expand a little further on the rubbing out the finish part.  I do woodworking from time to time - but its not like fine woodworking - its more like functional stuff I need around the barn, etc.. So no fancy finishes in my book.   I watched some youtube videos on some folks doing it on cars and different stuff.  I assume I need a specific type of rubbing compound?  Then maybe use a dremel with a buffing attachment perhaps?

Thanks man this has been super helpful.  I cut out the yesterday and today - it went a lot slower than expected.  I think I need a new blade in my bandsaw.  I generally am cutting pine or oak or poplar and I think the stuff in this riser is a lot harder than those woods.  So I have the general shape cut out and am hoping to start the rounded shaping of everything tomorrow.

kennym - what brand of wheel finish and auto clear coat do you use?  I was looking at that stuff too and the clear gloss said it left a metallic looking surface so I might not have looked at the right stuff.

This has been a great learning experience though for sure.

[kennym]

Its from O'reilly Auto Parts, think it is Duplicolor Perfect match clearcoat in red can,  Duplicolor matte wheel finish in taller black can.

Stuff dries in minutes, I put 4 coats of clear on all wood surfaces, and then  2 on wood and glass. Then 2 coats of matte on whole thing.

It will also dry on coco and bocote, unlike poly.

It's been on my hunting bow for 4 years with no probs.  I was concerned it would craze on limbs like the Bear bows do, but hasn't...

If you want a super finish, go with Flem's recipe , I build 4-5 bows a year and not gonna set up a spray  booth or spend a ton on finish to hunt with em...

[Flem]

Rubbing out a finish is something you can do to most finishes. Sounds like Kenny's finish is hard enough to qualify also. It's really simple and easy to do. Depending on the level of sheen you want, there are a couple of options.
For a satin or matte finish, Pumice powder mixed with oil(for satin) or mixed with water(matte) and rubbed on with a flannel, will do the trick. If you want a glossier finish, Rottenstone or Tripoli powder(also known as DE) is what you need. Once you get your final finish coats flat, its just a matter of rubbing the compound on until the surface looks evenly abraded. If you miss a spot, just go back over it until you have a uniform sheen. Once again I would recommend practicing on a sample piece. You can also use a number of household products to practice with. Baking soda, Baking powder, BonAmi, Diatomaceous earth, Talcum powder, Baby powder and of course car polish. I'm sure there are more products that I have not discovered yet!

[kenboonejr]

Thanks for the info guys.  I think this shaping part is gonna take me a little while though but hoping to get to the point where some time next week I can start the finishing.  That information really helps.