Need some advice on riser shaping

[kenboonejr]

I am currently working on shaping this bingham's take down recurve that I am working on. Again, this is my first one so learning with each step.  Anyway a couple of things I did learn about their plan.  IMO with like no experience here  the sight window doesn't need to be as tall as they have it.  I went ahead and followed it but afterwards I wish I didn't cause you have to knock an edge off the limb with their design.  I think it would have looked cleaner if it didn't go all the way as high and force you to take an edge off the upper limb butt.  I also think I might have cut the sight window in too deep cause my bandsaw blade was cutting in more on the bottom than what I could see and when I finished I was like oh crap.    So I am still working on the rough shaping.  I have tried using the rasp which will take me FORever!!! so switched back to power sanders and such but I am going real slow and not rushing anything.  I have several hours into the riser already partly cause I don't know what I am doing, and partly just cause I'm going slow cause I don't want to screw it up.  Anyway, how much smaller can I go with the handle.  I know I have a lot more rounding to do but how small can the handle be in the section where I hold it.  For instance my index finger in know way will be able to reach my thumb with it as big as it is.  And maybe it doesn't have too - not sure.  I think I want to shave off more of the front bulb if you will too.  Just not sure how much I can take off and it keep from breaking.  The wood is an action core riser and cocobolo strip in the middle (I think)  Also, this is targeting about 45# @ 28" and I think it is pretty close to that at this point. So just hoping some of you could take a look and give me some feedback before I go any further.
Thank you again!

[Bvas]

Most bows are 1-3/4” from deepest part of throat to back of bow and 1” to 1-1/4” wide in same area.

Site window height is users discretion. Some guys like tall windows, I like shorter ones. I think I focus and shoot better with a shorter window. And don’t worry about the window being perfectly flat. I purposely put a slight crown in mine so that the high/thick spot is same as strike plate. Just for added insurance of clearance.

[kennym]

What Brad said!

My grips are 1.75 deep and 1” wide and rounded well on all corners

[Mad Max]

What Brad said!

My grips are 1.75 deep and 1” wide and rounded well on all corners

X2

grip it in your hand and remove any place where it poking your palm.
Looks like your doing good so far
Look at many picture on the internet.

[Mad Max]

He is some good picture of a riser down the page.
http://discussions.texasbowhunter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385404

[knuklhed]

FWIW, I've taken other bows that I have, and used them as an estimating tool. If I like the fit of one in my hand, and it fits the style of the bow I'm trying to make, I try to replicate it.

[kenboonejr]

Ok thanks guys! That is really good information.  From every thing you guys have said I am free to take off a lot more wood then and make this riser a little less bulky.
I appreciate it!

[kenboonejr]

grip it in your hand and remove any place where it poking your palm.
Looks like your doing good so far
Look at many picture on the internet.

So still working on shaping the riser and it is starting to take shape pretty well.  It wasn't until I started getting closer to the final shape that I realized how true your statement is about the handle.  I'll post a pic once I'm finished shaping it.

Thanks again.

[Mad Max]

 

[kenboonejr]

Ok I think I am finished with the shaping of the riser.  Would love some feedback and suggestions though.  I don't have any other bows sitting around to compare it to and I have looked at a number of them online.  The tip about just sanding what hits your palm was pretty good too.  I kept working it until I feel like I had a good fit in my hand.  Anyway, I got to this point mainly with 50 and 80 grit with a sanding drum.  Anyway throwing some pics out for suggestions if you have them, before I start fine sanding things.
Thanks

[Mad Max]

Looks pretty good
Is everything rounded over?
The high point on the arrow shelf needs to be in line with the deep part of the grip.

Show pictures of the back and bell of the riser

[kenboonejr]

Wow.. I would have never known to line the high point up like that.  Never saw that before.  Good info!
Here is a pic of the belly and the back.

[Bvas]

Looking good.

One thing I do is close my eyes, grab the bow and point at target. When you open your eyes make sure the bow is pointed straight and not twisted off target.

[Balding Kansan]

Looking good.

One thing I do is close my eyes, grab the bow and point at target. When you open your eyes make sure the bow is pointed straight and not twisted off target.

Could you explain that more? If it is pointed to one side or the other, how do you shape the handle to make the correction?

[Bvas]

Being that your bow is right handed…….Let’s say that it seems the bow is “twisting” so that it seems to be pointing right. Then you would remove material on the left towards the back of the bow(where your fingers lay) or on the right side on the belly side. Or more simply, twist the bow back in line with the target and see where it puts the most pressure on your hand.

What you want is a repeatable grip that naturally lines the bow with the target every time you grasp it without having to think about.

[kenboonejr]

Looking good.

One thing I do is close my eyes, grab the bow and point at target. When you open your eyes make sure the bow is pointed straight and not twisted off target.

Thanks Bvas - I'll be sure to try that.  I think I still want to slim down the handle a little more before I start the finishing.