Starting back. 100 questions

[Inthewind]

Hello all,

I'm looking for any input from you experienced guys.

I'm picking up my bows after taking several years off and having fun getting back into shooting. I appreciate any thoughts and input.
Bow- I'm shooting a Bear Super Kodiak 64 grayling green, estimating 53lb at 29in, factory is 50lb @28. I'm shooting at a 9in brace height, which is slightly quieter than 8 and 8.5 (my bow is recommended to be between 8-9in.) I have wool type string silencers.  I'm shooting a 14 strand fast flight string.

Arrows-The arrows measure 33.5 in long from tip of point to nock groove. They are 350 spine trophy ridge arrows with (3) 5in feathers. I'm playing with 150, 175gr. weighted field tips. My arrows weigh 490 grains with the 150gr. tip.

Technique- Lots to relearn. Looking to shoot targets, join the local club, and eventually hunt small Florida deer maybe hogs.
I'm working out a string walking/gap shooting combination. Shooting 3 fingers underneath, while holding at a set crimp spot about an inch below the arrow my arrow tip is right on at 20 yards, when I use my middle finger to anchor on my canine tooth. I then plan to gap shoot anything under 20 yards, letting 20 yards be my maximum for now. I'm using a tab but may switch over to a glove. I have both.

These are my current thoughts and questions. Feel free to comment.

Does my anchor point and setup seem reasonable?

I'm interested in in installing a draw check clicker. Does anyone love/hate them?

Do limb silencers work, the leather that glues on the limb on the tips?

I know I need to eventually peel off some feathers and paper tune. Should I hold off and practice my form? I only have 6 arrows.

My nose hurts when the string hits it. Is canting the bow slightly more the answer? Seems to work.

Would gluing on 4 feathers onto the arrows be a good idea for heavier arrows and broadheads?

Once I get my arrows tuned I want to buy some grizzly single bevel broadheads and play with them. Does anyone like these or have a recommendation for a different affordable broadhead. Ace broadheads look good but are glue in only, and I don't feel like using adapters.

I like the idea of heavier arrows and somewhat high FOC. Using the 3 rivers calculator I found that the easton axis traditional 340s with 175 tips would yield the following. Thoughts on arrow speed, foc, momentum? Would I be upgrading in the right direction.
Arrow Total Weight (grains)544.5
Arrow Specific Weight (GPP)10.3
Front of Center (FOC) %15.3
Arrow Speed (ft/sec)181.9
Arrow Energy (ft-lbs)39.9

Current arrows wearing 175 tips are around these numbers.
Arrow Total Weight (grains)489.3
Arrow Specific Weight (GPP)9.2
Front of Center (FOC) %18.1
Arrow Speed (ft/sec)191.8
Arrow Energy (ft-lbs)39.9

What are your favorite resources for learning the finer points of shooting technique?

"Cause in the wind he's still alive"

 

[Sojurn]

At a 340 spine, I suspect your arrows are a bit stiff.  I'm drawing 29.75 inches and shooting 58 pounds, my arrows are 400 spine.  Your release and rest play a part though,  so things  could be different for you.
    For the time being, just shoot.  Don't get hung up on tuning this early on, or the details of f.o.c., single vs double bevel. Shoot the bow, and practice executing the best shot you can every time you shoot. If you're just flinging arrows, you're having fun, but not learning much.
  Just my $.02, there are many shooters here more experienced than me.

Edit:  one thing I will add, I would stay in the 10 to 11 grains per pound of arrow weight range.  Especially if you're leaning towards hunting, but even if you aren't, at 20 yards you won't notice the speed difference of a 9 gpp arrow, but your bow will be much happier.

[McDave]

Hi Inthewind, welcome to TradGang.  Lots of worthy questions, for sure!

For a start, I’ll just bite off one of them: hitting your nose with the string.  This is something that is always on the verge of happening to all of us, as close as the string passes to one's nose every time we shoot.

The first thing to try is to get your nose out of the path of the string.  Twist your head as far as you can in the direction of the target.  This not only helps with the string hitting it, but is generally good form.  Most people don't have a sufficient range of motion to twist their heads far enough, so as far as you can is good advice.  If you happen to be able to twist your head so far that your nose is pointing to the left of the target, then back off until it is pointing at the target.

The second thing is to get good alignment of your shoulders and string forearm.  If you’re not quite coming to full draw, such that your string forearm is in alignment with the arrow, then the direction of force can roll the string into your nose.  This again is just good form.

If you are using crimped on nocks rather than tied on nocks, the brass nock could be hitting your nose.  Even with tied on nocks, there could be something sticking out that hits your nose or face.  Sometimes when this happens, I can solve the problem by rotating the whole string 180*, so whatever was hitting my face is pointed in the opposite direction.

You could be hitting your nose or face with your tab.  Many people use tabs that are too big, which is bad for accuracy and also tends to cause contact between the face and the tab.  It is easier to fit a glove properly than a tab: just get a glove that is a little too snug at first and let your hand stretch it so it fits with use.  I use a tab myself, but have learned to trim it so there is no face/tab contact.

You shouldn’t have to cant your bow to avoid hitting your nose with the string.  If you’re doing everything else right, you should be able to hold your bow in any position you want.

[blacktailbob]

If your arrows fly straight and hit where you want then I've never understood the need to bare shaft tune.
I mean that is the fletching's job, make arrows fly good.

Camera's book "Shooting the Stickbow" would be a good addition to your library also.

[Inthewind]

Thank!

[PrimitivePete]

To answer some questions, in regards to your anchor point, I choose my anchor point based on my draw. Not by point chosen on my face. To explain further I use a rotational draw where I'm focusing on rotating the elbow back and into position, this dictates where I anchor on my face. I don't pull into my anchor, I rotate into it. My elbow makes a C shape not a straight line back. This has helped me solidify my anchor to where I can feel strong on the shot.
If you are still learning your form, do not get all worked up about tuning because if your form is not rock solid, your tuning results will vary enough to drive you made. Same with the clicker, work on your form otherwise tuning the clicker to your draw length will frustrate the heck out of you. Form is the mandatory first step. If you concentrate on working on a solid fundamental form, you will have a better time tuning and adding shooting aids. As far as hitting your nose, this can be due to your anchor being in the wrong spot and may need to be a little lower or further back.