Tiller question

[oldandslow]

I been wondering for a bit now...how you guys tiller your bows? I get the basics I guess but I have noticed that if the  bow sits a little
off or if the hook is on the string is a  little off the tiller/limb bend changes at least in respect to where the limb tips are relative to each other. in other words I can pull the string down on my tiller stick and the limb tips look even. Then if the bow position chnages on the stick or the grab point on the string changes even a little the limb tips change position.
So i may think things are good and the next time I check it may look off?

any thoughts on that?

[oldandslow]

Anyway here's a picture

[Mad Max]

Measure both side of the fades at the deepest part Braced, the shorter measurement is the bottom limb.
They need to be 1/16" for 3 under and  1/8" different for split finger draw.
Some may say 1/4"

[Bowjunkie]

Nope. Those ambiguous measurements at brace height are useless to me. I can dynamically balance three bows for the same person and they could each end up with different tiller measurements at brace. Maybe even one would be negative, one even, one positive. Wouldn't surprise me one tiny bit. But all would be balanced the same.

The bow's bend profile will absolutely change if the tiller stick is shifted on the bow or string. Same effect as moving your hands on bow or string. This is why it befuddles me that so many folks tiller their bows while holding and drawing on center, then move their hand an inch or two when they begin shooting. Why not just tiller it(adjust limb strengths) relative to how it will be held when shot?

I put the bow on the rope & pulley type tillering tree, hook on and draw it from where my string hand fulcrum will be, and adjust limb strength so the hook comes straight down. Done. No guessing or assuming what measurements at brace height might translate to at full draw. Balanced limbs bend in unison, arrow nock comes straight back and leaves straight away upon release. No moving nock points to 'fix' the effects of unbalanced limbs after the fact either.

Mad Max, what about a bow that unbraced, has one tip a little behind the other? This happens frequently in bows of all natural material. What are the correct tiller measurements? Tillering for dynamic balance on the tree has distinct advantages. One of them being that regardless of such disparities in limb profiles or internal anomalies, adjusting limb strength so the hook/fulcrum comes straight down balances those limbs... in spite of whatever the tiller measurements might end up as. Balanced is as balanced does.

[Mad Max]

I was giving him the easy answer   
Make sure you explain to him how to do all of that 

[oldandslow]

No worries guys. I been going over some previous post and found some really good info...including that excerpt for Jim Thorne.
Also I rehashed Roy's BBO build. One thing that always stuck with me from Roy's video was the placement of the bow and string relative to the shooter. I think I need to get my head around the fact that the limb tips go where they go as long as the bow is balanced in line with the pressure points

[Mad Max]

Mad Max, what about a bow that unbraced, has one tip a little behind the other? This happens frequently in bows of all natural material. What are the correct tiller measurements? Tillering for dynamic balance on the tree has distinct advantages. One of them being that regardless of such disparities in limb profiles or internal anomalies, adjusting limb strength so the hook/fulcrum comes straight down balances those limbs... in spite of whatever the tiller measurements might end up as. Balanced is as balanced does.

I have no comment on this because it's a glass bow.

[Flem]

There are many paths to that destination. I subscribe to the, "it only really matters what the tiller looks like at full draw" mentality. I also like Bowjunkie, like to mimic as much a possible the conditions which will influence the bow while tillering. I tiller for split fingers, so the pull cord on my tillering jig is equipped with 3 carabiners sleeved with tubing to get that finger width. I also have a formable insert on the block the handle rests in, to simulate a palm holding the bow. Probably overkill, but it was no trouble and it eliminates a couple potential questions of contrived influences. Of course this is easier to accomplish with a simple handle design like on a Hill style.

[Crooked Stic]

Nothing is overkill if it works for you.