Almost ready to start on next bow - questions

[kenboonejr]

Ok so for the next bow my ideas have changed over time.  Initially I wanted to try to do some fancier riser work with curved accents and such, but now I am thinking in terms of more functional bow specifically for hunting.  I saved a link to this thread below:

https://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=176688.new;topicseen#new

@Southpawky did this really cool paint pattern and quite honestly I just think that is a great camo pattern for my woods.

The next bow I am going to build will be a Bingham's one piece recurve.  Not sure which riser to go with yet.  I like the alternate riser pattern, but perhaps that would be better for a fancier riser with more accent work.  So maybe I will do the standard riser for this next one, because again I am just going for camo pattern for hunting.

So on the last bow I did I finished it like how @Kennym does.  I used the clear coat stuff from ORiellys auto parts and it turned out well.   What I am not sure about is how I go about painting a bow.

So do I seal it first with the sealant for a few coats, and then apply my paint job? Then seal over the top of that?    Would that be the process if you were going to paint a bow instead of just putting a clear coat on?

And if I am simply going to do a paint job instead of show off the wood, I guess it really doesn't matter on the color of the lams, or fiberglass.  What would be just at the basic riser wood to use in this case?

Thanks,

[Appalachian Hillbilly]

Sealing is often done to fill pores and prevent the fibers from popping up with each coat. Sealing locks the fibers down. If you are just painting it, you could do a base coat of one color, let it dry and sand the nibs off, then repaint with your pattern.

Dewaxed Shellac makes a very good sealer and can be painted over once dry with about anything.

Really enjoyed your  videos of the first bow!

[kennym]

I've been thinking on a paint job same as that! I would seal the wood with something before paint, not sure how moisture resistant flat paint will be.

If I do that, I won't put anything over the flat paint to keep it flat as possible...

May want to do a test piece to be sure the flat sticks to the seal coat, but I think it should.

[Crooked Stic]

X2 on what Kenny said.
I have clear coated over flat black but will not be as flat but works okay depending on the look you want.

[Jeff Freeman]

I've done quite a few special paint jobs with automotive paint on vehicles and bows. I was in it for 38 years in the world of autobody and restoration. Started when I was 14.
I'm not a good typer, so it would take a while to tell you how and what my process is.
 But if you want to hear. Give me a holler and I'll guide you through it. JF

[Jeff Freeman]

My first car. I was 14  in 1977

[kenboonejr]

Wow I bet that was a sweet first car Jeff!

I think I am just going to experiment with a couple different sealants and see which ones I can paint over and then I probably will do a final matte clear coat sealant coat over the paint.  At least that is what I am thinking now.

As far as wood for the riser, since it is going to be painted too, what would you guys recommend since it doesn't need to be fancy?

Thanks for the all the suggestions.

[Jeff Freeman]

I did all the restoration except the interior. Had it for 27 years. I felt a new desire working with wood 😍🏹
 I would get your bow finished down to a gloss epoxy sealer and then do your paint finish paint work and appropriate finish clear. JF

[kenboonejr]

Jeff,
That sounds like a good plan. I think I will try that.

I was never a car guy, I love my vehicles, but I HATE working on them.  So I admire all you guys that restore those things.  That is pretty good skill to have.

[Jeff Freeman]

I have grown to hate working on cars now. I've moved on to a completely different job last year.
 Fun stuff . JF

[kenboonejr]

Funny, how things change.  I am trying to transition out of what I have been for 30 years as well for the same reason 

[Bvas]

If I was painting a riser, I’d probably go with hard maple. Very little grain filling to do with it. But I’m not a fan of solid one piece risers as far as strength. You could Ibeam it or laminate a few thinner pieces so you don’t have grain running all the thru.