Tillering

[bigcountry]

I have been reading thru the Trad Bowyers bible vol 1 and 2 getting ready for my build in 2 weeks.  

I have been really studying the tiller section.  I am curious how many get thier tiller perfect and then try to reduce thier bow weight and totally ruin a good good bow.  From reading, this appears to be a huge obsticle.  Can't wait to try however.  I am going to wait to purchase tools but the spokeshave looks difficult to master.  

Also, how much extra poundage should be added to account for total bow breakin and set for say a hickory bow.

Right now, I think I want to build a 66" hickory pyamid type limb starting at 2" right after the handle and going to 5/8" at the tips.  I would desire a 55-60# total finished bow.  

I know there is a good chance I will screw up the first 5-10 bows.  But I figured I can always dream big for my first one.  

[bigcountry]

Oh one more. I notice in some pictures of tillering bows, people don't always start in the middle of the bow grip.  Any reason?

[Apex Predator]

I think chasing weight after getting everything even is the easy part.  I struggle with getting everything even and having enough wood left to make my target weight!

[workin at it]

I bought all the tools a couple years ago. Have used the heck out of my drawknife, scrapers, and rasp. Have never used my spokeshave to work a stave. practiced a little, but it seems to dig in for me.
Probably just don't know how to use it properly.

[Jack Skinner]

I prefer to get tiller first then go after weight. Slow is the thing. Remove wood work the bow, I made an exercise tree and since have made weight every time. I build at least 3-5lbs heavey and with shooting in and final finishing get my weight. Once you have everything perfect tiller, close to weight you can put the bow on your tiller tree at brace and leave for 1hr that helps my bows settle in and I lose very little weight if any after that.

A good sharp spokeshave is a great tool with a straight grain stave but with impefections it can dig in.

I am not sure of your middle of the bow grip question. Are you referring to stiff in the handle bows verses bend in the handle bows. It is all personal preference, I like D bows that bend right to or into the handle.

[bigcountry]

Jack, if you visulize a bow on a tiller tree.  I see some where handle is not centered on the top of the tree.  In other words the pivot point is ot centered.  I thought you want to tiller right at the center of the bow?  

Thanks guys for the advise.  I am going to take alot of pictures and try to post.  Pretty excited over it.

Wood and I have never been the best of friends.  But I figured with some more age under my belt, I have gained some patience to try to be friends with wood again.

[Brent Rudolph]

Working with all wood bows is not an exact science. Between weight and tiller, tiller is most important. If the bow wont shoot, it don't matter if you hit your weight right on the nose. As far as totally ruining a bow by missing weight, I would suggest having a couple of guys or gals in mind that need a bow. When you hand an unsuspecting person a gift made with your own hands it is real gratifying.

You already said you suspect you will "screw up" 5-10 before you get what you're after. I bet your pals won't consider a gift like that a screw up, and you get a lot of practice along the way........and maybe a couple of shooting partners. Good luck and enjoy the bowyer journey.

Brent

[John Scifres]

Sometimes bows are made with the top limb longer to improve balance and have the arrow launch a little closer to center.  The effectiveness of this has can be debated (please not here) but that's what you are seeing.

Don't assume you will mess up unless you are in a hurry.  Take your time.  Follow instructions and ask for help.  The best way to learn is to post pics of your progress here and let us see what you are doing.

[bigcountry]

Originally posted by John Scifres:
Sometimes bows are made with the top limb longer to improve balance and have the arrow launch a little closer to center.  The effectiveness of this has can be debated (please not here) but that's what you are seeing.

Don't assume you will mess up unless you are in a hurry.  Take your time.  Follow instructions and ask for help.  The best way to learn is to post pics of your progress here and let us see what you are doing.

Thanks John.  Just trying to humble myself.  

I will be under supervision of others.  Its a 4 day build starting May 15th.

[Eric Krewson]

Make you one of these,

 http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=033419

Tillering will be a breeze with it. This is the best tillering aid out there. I am surprised so few people that make bows have tried one.

[ber643]

If you are referring to the Gizmo, Eric - and I bet you are - I sure like mine (from last years St. Jude Auction).

[Jack Skinner]

Bigcountry I am not sure why some folks do that. I build with upper limb 1.5" longer. When you lay out your handle this is taken into account then. So I always place the center of my handle in the center of the tiller tree.

Eric Krewson I have always just used a small straight edge to tiller. But have seen your Gizmo and have plans to make one before I start my next bow.

I bid on one last year but lost to apparently ber643

[onemississipp]

Read this and it should clear somethings up, and have a look around the site as well.

 http://www.bowyersedge.com/organic.html

[bigcountry]

Eric, that looks like pure simple genius. thanks

[Pat B]

I prefer to set up a bow symmetrically...meaning making the center of the bow the center of the handle. I used to do it the other way(1 1/4" above and 2 3/4" below center) but have found, for me, it is easier to see proper tiller that way.  I don't really think it matters as long as you get the tiller correct.
   Your main concern when building a wood bow is to get the tiller correct first. With proper tiller a few scrapes the full length of each limb will reduce the weight. Exercise the limbs thoroughly and check the tiller to be sure its still true then take a few more scrapes if necessary and check again.
   You should have no problem hitting the desired weight with the design you want. I would eventually reduce the tips to 3/8" or so to reduce tip weight.
   When making bows, I usually leave the handle area full width and thickness to give a place to clamp the bow while working on it. Later you can make adjustments to line up the string tracking at the handle.
  I leave tips a bit wide for the same reason as the handle; to help line up the string. Also by leaving them thicker(1/2")you can reduce the width later, thus reducing the physical weight without reducing the strength.
   I will even shoot a bow with over sized tips and handle area to see how the limbs preform. Then I will reduce both to their ultimate size before I add a finish.
  Each person has their own way of doing things that work for them. Consider all options and pick the one method best suited for you.
  Onemississip, Dean is obviously an excellent bowyer and there are many of his methods I follow but for me a symmetrical bow is better. There is no right or wrong way to go about it as long as proper tiller is achieved.       Pat

[Walt Francis]

Nothing about making a selfbow is fool proof, but Eric’s Tillering Gizmo is the best aid I have found for getting the tiller close, especially on a BBO or board bow.