But you can accomplish the same thing just trying different string lengths, watching your limbs bend on the tiller tree, then adjusting the location of the deepest part of the grip to a user friendly brace height.
Kirk, thanks for the ideas.
I'm making all wood bows for the time being and tinkering with laminations and Perry reflex type preload in the glue ups, but I will try different string lengths on the tillering tree on my next bow and see what that does to the bend. Being all wood, nothing is adjustable on my bows, but I can always learn a few things and then incorporate the lessons learned on the next bow.
Mark
I have known a few guys that were really into building board bows, and while it's true you can only do so much once you have the bow on the tiller tree, there are many adjustments that can be made laying up each bow.
Different types of materials used, taper rate, and power wedge locations are some of them. using tip wedges or even reverse tapered lams is another. The geometric shape of your form can sometimes be altered with inserts rather than building new forms too.....
Everything is adjustable if you feel like exploring and tinkering with things. Some of my biggest discoveries came from an oooops during the lay up process, and efforts made to save a set of limbs. Deeper core narrow limbs are good examples. Have fun... That's what counts. Kirk