When I first started building bows everyone was putting masking tape on their glass and used a variety of different kinds of plastic from sandwich wrap to painters plastic.
I think I tried it all before coming to the realization that you really don’t need to cook that masking tape to your limbs, and quit using it on the glass until AFTER the limbs or bow comes out of the forms. Even then, I just use minimal amounts for drilling lay out. I use spray paint and a limb pattern made from Formica for my limb profile after my limbs are mounted.
What I finally settled on that I like the best is cutting strips of 2-3 mill painters plastic in 6” strips about 36” long. I get the limb laid up, wipe it clean with lacquer thinner and place the limb on the plastic and just fold it once before putting it in the form. Then I place my heat strip, or pressure strip over it, and wrap the excess plastic back over the top of the heat strip and then zip tie it to the form. I like the 3 mill plastic the best. It’s easier to cut and work with, and it come off easier than the thinner stuff does.
I did have some heavy plastic with deformations in it transfer to the glass a few times, but never have problems with lighter mill plastic…. I always leave my zip ties in place using 22 gage stainless steel heat strips, and use 50-60# pressure.
Protection for my forms is done when I first build the form only. I seal them with several heavy coats of brushing lacquer or shellac and store them on a shelf in a vertical position. I also glue the bottom stainless steel heat strip in the form so it stays in place and protects the shape. If it gets glue on it, it’s easily sanded off the stainless steel.
Here is an older lay up video I did back when I was using electric heat strips. But shows the whole process I use. Kirk
Topic: Protecting bowform before glue up. (Read 1506 times)
