DIY Takedown Recurve Bow Help

[steviecrawford_]

Hello everyone,

I am new to the forum, but I have appreciated the information I have received from other posts for a while. I am working on making my own takedown recurve riser and laminating the limbs myself. I have been using the resources from Bingham projects, and I am basically hoping to follow that plan with my own materials. I am trying to do it cheaply.

Here is some information on my project: I have laminated a riser (3 pieces of oak) together and it is 17" in length, I plan to make the bow length 62" x 1.75" (I really just chose that length because I am 6'4" and I heard that would be a good length). With the 17" riser and a 62" total length I thought I would need each limb to be 22.5". However, that would not factor in the overlap of the limbs on the riser. What kind of overlap is normal on the limb pad? Some might recommend changing the riser length, but I had gone with 17" for some reason when I started last year, and I have already shaped it some, so I would prefer to stick with it if I can. I am finally beginning to tackle the limbs after a long pause on this project.

As for the limb laminations, I have pictures below to show my thought process. As you can see in the lamination picture, I have five different lamination pieces each 1.75" in width: two sheets of Bo-Tuff, one parallel (oak), one wedge, and one taper (oak). I want the bow to be 60# so the butt thickness needs to be .270" (without the wedge) for a 62" bow. My two pieces of Bo-Tuff combine to .08", that means the parallel and wedge needs to be .095" each. So, .08" + .095" + .095" = 0.270" total (again without the wedge). The wedges will be 8.25" in length, they will taper after 2.25", and the butt thickness of the wedge will be .375" (3/8").

 Font Material property Pattern Number Symmetry

I am sorry if all this information is overkill, but I figured it would be better to lay it all out there from the beginning. Now, I know there are a lot of other posts talking about pretty much the same thing as this, but I am hoping I could get your help to make sure this bow will work for me specifically.

I have calculated my draw length based on my height (6'4" or 76") to be 30.5" but I am starting to think it is less than that, so I need to calculate my draw length based on my wingspan.

Here is some context for the application of this bow. I am a senior at Montana State University, and I am building this bow for personal use hunting when I have free time from classes. I am mainly planning to hunt mule deer and elk here in Montana. I have made two long bows before, so I am not that experienced. I also have little carpentry experience with limited tools (drill, circular saw, jigsaw, orbital sander, draw shave, files). I do have a friend who owns a table saw and bandsaw that I could use.

What I need help with...
1. I think the pound-thickness chart is based on a 28" draw length, if I am a little higher will I be okay? I am okay if my draw weight is around 55#-65#.
2. What should the limb pad angle be based on the specs of the bow that I provided and what is the best way to transfer that angle onto my riser? I thought 17 degrees could be good but that is just a guess.
3. What is the limb overlap on the riser (mentioned earlier)? And how long should my limbs be?
4. What width should the limbs taper to?
5. Would you recommend a sight and a rest on this bow? If so, what kinds?

Thank you all in advance for your help, and please feel free to point out anything I am missing.

Sincerely,
Stevie Crawford

[Crooked Stic]

If you are building the Bingham design those stacks should work. If not mileage will vary.

[Kirkll]

The only thing i see you missing is experience on your first recurve rodeo.     (Humor)

The binghams plans should give you limb pad angles. I used to have all their plans years ago, but i think i sent them to someone else just starting out. But 17 degree should work well with Binghams limb design, but  you will have to check that out.... you can buy plans here.

https://binghamprojects.com/store/blueprints-only/

There are tons of info on this site that will help you get started, but keep in mind something....

Your limb alignment is critical on a recurve bow. You want to mount your limbs on the riser full width and use a straight edge or a string to get your center line perfect before shaping the width profile. Its best to leave the riser block unshaped until you have your limbs mounted and profiled. Measure your tip notches location from the center of the riser each way. a 17" riser with a 62" length should accommodate a 30" draw ok. On that limb design you'll see about 3 pounds per inch increase from 28" to 30"  , or 6-7#s total

The stack height is a crap shoot for actual draw weight.... and yes binghams weight charts are 28" draw but your mileage will vary. Getting your true draw length established prior to building this might be a good idea too....

Good luck!    Feel free to ask questions as you go. Look forward to seeing the finished product

[jrstegner]

Those stacks are for a 19" riser. If you want a 62" bow on a 17" riser you need to go off the 64" chart which has a 21" riser, and calculate for a 66" bow. Use a 10.5" wedge. Limb pads are 21°. I suggest you buy the plans and follow the directions for your first bow. If it was me I would build a 19" riser, and not use oak. Get you a good piece of Bubinga or Pau Ferro for strength, you won't need overlays on the back of the riser and you won't have to worry about it blowing up the first time you pull it.

[Crooked Stic]

Bubinga is a solid wood that burns easy so don't rush the shaping. Never used pau Ferro. Was told it was toxic as cocobolo and I can't handle that.