New oven ideas

[Buggs]

You using a PID Hillbilly?

I don't get rapid cycling, but it does cycle on and off a lot modulating temp.
 Does your controller have ramp/soak function?

[Appalachian Hillbilly]

Here you go Buggs
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Electronic-Temperature-Germination-Controlling/dp/B01486LZ50/ref=sxts_rp_s_a_sp_1_0?adgrpid=58602327720&content-id=amzn1.sym.e1d0fd65-dbff-454d-9e35-926f4c285911%3Aamzn1.sym.e1d0fd65-dbff-454d-9e35-926f4c285911&cv_ct_cx=inkbird+temperature+controller&gclid=CjwKCAjw5P2aBhAlEiwAAdY7dFRxbsaoQ28gzIJkEy3G-gpHjFllCmqC6OVvX_0YH-PE5vo1Qn_UHhoCFZwQAvD_BwE&hvadid=583866772541&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9010321&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=b&hvrand=18179376325249153990&hvtargid=kwd-299623784374&hydadcr=955_1014988408&keywords=inkbird+temperature+controller&pd_rd_i=B01486LZ50&pd_rd_r=9448594c-adb7-4f04-b781-e473c1abd70f&pd_rd_w=vWZj4&pd_rd_wg=5HbVq&pf_rd_p=e1d0fd65-dbff-454d-9e35-926f4c285911&pf_rd_r=Y55P76QJNV4HJACQ8313&psc=1&qid=1667232515&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIzLjIyIiwicXNhIjoiMi44OSIsInFzcCI6IjIuNzMifQ%3D%3D&sr=1-1-3a65484d-1c95-4bed-b564-9469fdeef107
. Not your old school PID controller where you had access to all the parameters. I used to use Auburn PID controllers on my powder coat ovens I built.

These are much easier since we are not actually measuring the temp of the bow and controlling off that. We are just measuring free air temp and holding it.

I generally set a 5 degree swing and it does not cycle excessively.

[Buggs]

I've got a couple of those type units for greenhouse heat mats. Unfortunately they are 110v, which limits your potential heat source. No baseboard element with that unit.

[Appalachian Hillbilly]

If you want to run 220 with those, you can use a solid state relay. Did that with my powder coat ovens.

You just have to find one with 120v control side

[Buggs]

When you say "those" are you referring to the element or the controller?

[Appalachian Hillbilly]

Either. I think the Inkbird is rated for 1200 watts.wpuld have to look that up. Baseboards are probably going to be more than that so you would need a relay to use with the inkbird.

The other PID controllers I used had either 10 amp dry contacts or a low amperage 120 out put to run switches, alarms, contractors etc.

[Buggs]

I had no idea you could run 220v off a 120v temp controller. Could you share your knowledge of any extra equipment needed for this? I only have so many 220v outlets and it would be great to free one up.

I' using a 18" element, rated at 300w, which is way more than enough for 10cuft of heat box.
Circulation fan is the key ingredient.

[OldRawhide42]

What kind of fan to take the heat of the oven ?

[mmattockx]

I had no idea you could run 220v off a 120v temp controller.

If I'm understanding AH correctly, he is just suggesting using the controller to trigger a relay that actually handles the power to the heating element. All you would need for that is a relay that will take a 120V signal and handle 220V and whatever amps you need for the element.


Mark

[Roy from Pa]

Yup all ya need is a 120 volt relay coil with heavier contacts to handle the current draw of the heater assy.

[Appalachian Hillbilly]

Roy is correct.  The extra relay is basically  a switch that uses the 110 to switch in a set of heavier duty contacts. These can be mechanical relays with coils,  or solid state relays. The solid state usually have a smaller form factor and no moving parts.

If anyone has specific questions,  pm me. This is part of what I do for a living. We have a bunch of extrusion coating and use a ton of heating elements.

Ken

[Roy from Pa]

I have 220 volt baseboard heaters in my shop.

I run them off a thermostat which picks the 110 volt relay and that supplies the 220 volts to the baseboard heaters.

That is when I don't have the wood burner cranking.

[Kirkll]

I have 220 volt baseboard heaters in my shop.

I run them off a thermostat which picks the 110 volt relay and that supplies the 220 volts to the baseboard heaters.

That is when I don't have the wood burner cranking.

How big is your shop Roy? I can’t imagine using baseboard heaters as being the most cost effective heat source. But…. If you have a wood stove I can see it.

I got rid of my wood stove in my shop and went to a propane heater. It’s more cost effective, and a lot less work than muscling wood. I was burning 4-5 cords a year heating with wood. But…. I’ve got a big uninsulated area to heat. My work area is 24x36 in summer, but I use arctic curtains in winter heating 24x24 with 10’ ceilings. (The green plastic is seriously heavy stuff.)

This is what I put in my shop.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/HvMaPEQbNVckF599A

[Stagmitis]

Ever consider a mini split system?

[Roy from Pa]

My shop is 14 x 28 concrete block with 2x4 walls added on inside, and knowing I was using electric heat, I super insulated the walls and ceiling.

However I have a wood stove also that I use as my main heat, and I need to be careful with it cause it will chase you out. More than once I've had the windows and door open to cool things down.