My center cut , or to-center cut depends on the type of bow i'm building and the grip shape. The sculptured grips with a nice thumb ledge seen commonly on recurves, can be incorporated into R/D long bows as well but typically require a thicker riser block to start out with. For a standard center cut up to 1/8" past center an 1.75" thick block is fine. Once i start going 3/16" or more past center, i use a 2" or thicker block that is typically footed or has an I-beam for reinforcement or strength.
In your case you have a 1.5" riser block for an R/D long bow. I would not recommend cutting any further than 1/8" past center, leaving a 5/8" thick section for the strike plate area to work with.
As far as tuning arrows go, to can cut it to-center and easily adjust spine for arrow paradox. I personally like about an 1/8" past center, then use a velcro strike plat that brings it back to center.... Tuning arrows to a true center cut placement of your arrow on the shelf (3/16" or more cut) will allow a larger range of arrow spines that can be used, but can change your sight perspective when shooting....
I know that may sound strange... But hear me out.... If you are used to shooting a true center shot set up with stiffer shafts or small diameter shafts, the way you look down that arrow aligning for your shot is different than a bow that is cut to-center with your arrow sitting slightly off center at full draw.
With both type shelf cut risers and well tuned arrows are used. here is an example:
When you switch from a to-center cut riser that you have been shooting, to a 3/16" past center cut riser , the first thing you will notice is you are shooting way right on a right handed bow...
Why? because the arrow is setting 3/16" further to the right on your shelf at full draw when you are aiming.
The exact opposite is true if you are used to shooting a 3/16" past center cut bow, and pick up a to-center cut riser bow. You will find yourself shooting way left at 20 yards.... It's your sight picture at full draw that you have developed... Its tough to switch back and forth between the two with good consistency....
Sorry to get so long winded here.... But to answer your question, it depends on what you are used to shooting. In most cases, guys shooting a long bow off the shelf, their bows are cut just to center up to 1/8" past, and build out their strike plate as part of the arrow tuning process. Or tune their arrows to what ever type of strike plate material used. Velcro is soft, and will tune differently than using a hard leather strike plate. The hard strike plate typically requires more precise spine requirements and tip weight adjustment, and typically use a stiffer shaft than a soft strike plate does..... A softer strike with arrows tuned a wee bit on the weak side is more forgiving of a less than perfect release in my experience.....
I would recommend 1/16" - 1'8" past center and use velcro strike plate for your best bet for a universal set up for either Long bow, R/D hybrid, or recurve. Shelf height ty[pically ranges from 3/4" to 1" above center of your riser. .05 cents worth... Kirk
Topic: Where should I make centercut? (Read 1723 times)
