Limb noise ideas??

[Bryan Adolphe]

Well, coming to the end on this KennyM  T/D. Shot it again yesterday and shoots deadly! for me. Extremely happy with this bow how it shoots and feels compared to my first two builds so improving a little I think . still got a bit of sanding to finish up and spray it.
I’m looking for any ideas I got one problem as I put tension on the string in the draw I got a heck of a sound in my upper limb bolt area I thought I should’ve pulled the alignment pen out to see if that was the issue but I didn’t.  I’ve seen a lot of recurves and long bows with gaskets between the limb pads. Is this something I should look at and what kind of materials do you guys use if so ??? Cheers B

[kennym]

Looks great Bryan, lots of TDs with pins make a creak or pop , I now put a tad of toilet ring wax (BRAND SPANKIN NEW) on the pin and pad surface , and it lasts all season.

You can try a felt pad but if it's the pin it probably won't fix it.

YMMV

[Bryan Adolphe]

Thanks Kenny I will try that once I get a finish on it, 

[Crooked Stic]

X2 on the potty wax. And yeah new one 

[Bryan Adolphe]

Ha yes thanks, Mike. I am in the works  at getting those drilling jigs built for myself but just haven’t got them done yet it was frustrating that I couldn’t build another set of limbs to fit this riser because of inaccuracies in drilling my limbs they came in light for me again Also just not a big fan of the exposed (I beam) look ,would like to figure something else out. 

[Crooked Stic]

Ibeam are good. Some mill a slot in front of the riser glue it in and overlay it. Or accent side to side. Widow doing it for years.

[Bryan Adolphe]

The walnut I had was quite soft, so the  maple might hold it together. The bow is only 35 pounds . I think the next one i will set it of centre a little bit more so I don’t cut into it at the window. 

[Bryan Adolphe]

Thanks, gents I do believe I’ve taken care of that pop in the top limb, i’ve noticed one other small problem. It looks like I’ve got a little bit of limb twist in the last 4 inches of the upper limb, the other limb is fine. I also checked my form and the tip is dead square, so I filed in my knock about as far as I’d like to go, and it just won’t move. Any ideas on how to straighten this? 

[kennym]

Checklist:

Nocks straight across from each other?

Limb pad on riser square to side of riser?

String the limbs center at tips to check if they are on center of riser?

You will maybe have to sand the edge at midlimb where that bulge is on the right.


This is why TDs are harder for me, otherwise they are easier...

[Crooked Stic]

Especially  on recurves you start out with limbs wider than finish width . Then when you get them pulling straight one groove may be deeper so you sand to match other side.

[Bryan Adolphe]

Thanks guys I will check everything over again. Difficult to get a good picture of it .

[Kirkll]

Most guy don’t use a mill to drill their risers and limbs. But once I got mine set up I use two location pins, and the outer pin hole in the limb is not just a hole, but a slot. I go .020 either direction for the slot, and rarely get any noise out of those pin holes any more.  That would be tough to do with a drill jig though…

Question:  Are you mounting both your limbs full width and using a straight edge or a string to lay out center before doing your limb width profile?  It’s important to keep a center line mark on those limbs as you shape the profile…. If you are doing this already, and have your tip notches dead on , and still having limb twist issues, you’ve most likely  got something out of square on your limb pads or limbs…

Look at these photos in this link below… the riser block has to be dead square at the limb pads, and checking the limbs like the photos closely is critical on both hybrid limb and RC limbs…. Otherwise you are building a twist into the limbs you won’t easily straighten.  .02 cents.   Kirk

https://photos.app.goo.gl/H46pmH4bUWSxq4pz8