Your go to layout for an Osage self bow.

[Burnsie]

I have about a dozen staves chased down to a ring - time to make a bow.
I ran across Micky Lottt's (Ferret) old web page online and am following his layout.

http://peteward.com/Articles/Ferret.osage.buildalong1.htm

Handle - 4" long, 1" wide
Fades - 2" long, 1.25" at widest
Tips - 1/2" wide
Limb taper is continuous from the fades right to the tips.

This makes a nice sleek looking limb shape, but I notice others keep their limb much wider to about mid limb and then taper to the tip from there.  What do you all prefer? Continuous taper from the fades to the tips, or staying wider until mid limb, then taper to tips?

[Pat B]

It depends on the wood used but also it is a personal decision. For osage I do both with the parallel portion going from 4" out to about 8" depending on my mood. A pyramid style works very well as well for osage. I usually go with either
1 3/8" to 1 1/2" at the fades but I have built hunting weight osage bows with only 1" at the fades.
 Be sure to seal those exposed backs or they will check, even with seasoned staves. I keep a can of spray shellac on my work bench just for this.

[rainman]

I prefer pyramid.  I find it easier to tiller.

[Bowjunkie]

Neither. I start right at the flares and run slightly convex lines that taper the limb's width to the tips.

[Skeeterlegs]

For me it varies depending on what poundage at what length. Short bow and high poundage the limb is parallel farther out the limb. Longer bow and lighter poundage I use a shorter parallel section.