Sandrite mfg. for sanding?

[TC209X50]

Is anyone using the Sandrite mfg. inflatable pneumatic drum and flap/brush style sander heads for riser handle or rough limb shaping? just wondering how well these would work? any experience is appreciated.
Thanks

[Stagmitis]

i have a Grizzly drum/flap sander I use only for sanding the back and belly glass, side profile and handle. This is done after the bow is tillered and string aligned. 

Its a game changer that saves tons of time with final hand sanding but cant imagine profiling a bow this way 

[Kirkll]

Is anyone using the Sandrite mfg. inflatable pneumatic drum and flap/brush style sander heads for riser handle or rough limb shaping? just wondering how well these would work? any experience is appreciated.
Thanks

I could see those soft inflatable drums as being useful for some applications. What are you considering using the drum on?

[Mad Max]

I do this much with my edge sander, all 4 sides and then round over with rasp and sand paper.

[TC209X50]

Just trying to reduce some hand sanding after profiling by using the brushes and then maybe some work on the limbs with drum. The arthritis is real! lol

[Kirkll]

I’ve never liked the flap sander wheels I have played with. I’m a big time palm sander guy myself. The low profile air sanders are light weight and easy to use.

Another one I use on my shelf and rest shaping is a right angle die grinder with 36 grit disks for rough shape, and 50 grit to tame down the 36 grit gouges. I use a combination on an edge sander, a spindle sander, die grinder, and palm sander for my riser shaping. It’s all done by hand, and by eye. I do use a pattern to get the rough shape and grip depth established.  I’ll have to do a video some time.   Kirk

[Stagmitis]

I dont like the flap sander either Kirk-I have two drums set up with different grit paper.

[Jon Lipovac]

I might be the odd guy out. I get the rough profile and the bandsaw, then Rigid belt sander then throw it in a vice and use a rasp and files. Then palm sand the flatter areas and hand sand the the rest of it.

[Kirkll]

I’ve had some projects where flap sander wheels  were the cats meeyow. I was refinishing an old rod iron railing years ago that had those twisted balusters every 4” that were covered in rust , and those flap wheels worked excellent for cleaning the old paint and rust off.  I could give you other examples where they are worth their weight in gold sometimes, but most of them were working with metal. 

As woodworkers we have become spoiled with all the new toys that have been developed over the years. I remember starting out as a young boy with my father and grandfather and being told I needed to master the hand tools first, before being introduced to the power tools. In the late 1960’s and early 70’s all the finish woodworking in new homes were hand nailed and fit with block planes and sanding blocks. Hanging doors, and installing window surrounds, and casing,  was all cut with a hand miter saw and secured with nails driven by hand and a nail set was used  on each nail…… compressors and nail guns were just becoming popular in the mid 70’s and it actually hurt the old school finish carpenters a lot. The prices dropped a lot with the increased production of the nail guns alone. Not to mention the power miter saws and hand held routers and sanders  they came out with during that time.

So I really appreciate all these wonderful modern toys, after learning to do it all by hand many years ago.     Kirk