Riser block

[buckeyebowhunter]

This riser block be okay without front glass overlay?
 Osage with 1/8" phenolic accents.  I don't want to do front overlays unless I have to but I will. Bow will be about 48#. Thanks in advance

[Kirkll]

Osage is pretty strong material, but…. Like any wood, it’s only as strong as its weakest point. depending on how you shape the riser, and grain runout location, and draw weight, it may or may not need overlays…. I would definitely cap those limb pads where the laminations on your footing lines terminate regardless of draw weight.   Kirk

[buckeyebowhunter]

I just have never cared for the look of overlays on the front of a riser. Just my personal preference, although I do understand the strength they can add.

Kirk are you using some sort of a jig for clamping overlays on the riser limb pads?

[jess stuart]

I always cap my risers  with glass.  Makes them much stronger

[Kirkll]

No I do not use a jig for clamping limb pad overlays, or even full riser overlays. The limb pads that I mill in a vertical milling machine. I just keep the riser in the vise and use the Chuck as a press and use CA. For a full overlay I use clamps.

I prefer linen phenolic or wood for limb butt overlays or even full overlays because I’ve had glass split after drilling the location pins and inserts.

There are a lot of guys that do not use overlays on the back of their risers successfully, and in many cases they are not needed… Use your common sense on wood type and grain run out, and you’ll figure it out yourself where to draw the line.

Kirk