First functional glass bow

[Powder]

I stepped off into it and decided to try and build a glass bow again.

The bow is of forward handle design. Chakte viga core, two lams of white oak, black glass, and a little black walnut. 66 inches, R and D design, and pulls 65 lbs at 28'.

I got really lucky, as I don't really know what I am doing with this kind of build, and had some good advice from a bowyer buddy out west.

Anyway, pics for your amusment!

[Crooked Stic]

Looks good. But it appears the fade area needs to be thinner.

[Powder]

Like narrow it side to side?

[Crooked Stic]

No just by looking at riser fade in the pic the fade taper should be thinner. If I am seeing it right.

[Powder]

Ah...ok.

Can't fix it now, but I will take it into account next time. There is a short, thin lam of black walnut, 21 inches long, that serves to help push the bend out a bit. (Centered on the riser) I do this on my wooden bows, so I tried it with this one. Not sure if it did anything or not.

[Crooked Stic]

That will help for sure. That was the original duty of the power lam to unload the fades a bit. I always get at least .250 or less 2 in back from the fadeand thinner is better.

[Powder]

Will this kill the bow? I have a 100 shots or so through it to this point... Doesn't seem to be an issue. But again, this is my first working glass bow, and only second try. I haven't tried these types much. So I'm pretty ignorant.

[Crooked Stic]

Prolly not gonna kill it. Unless you got a really long draw. If it looks hingy at full draw may be a concern..

[Powder]

Ok. I have a 28.5 inch draw... And I don't believe it looks off at full draw. So let's hope for the best!

[Crooked Stic]

Yeah you prolly be good.

[Kirkll]

Here is the best explanation i could give you, and its important. i]ve seen those short steep fades last for a couple years, then have it come apart. Another trick is using a power lam to extend those fades even further.  That pushes the working limb out further and increases performance, and gives you a better string angle at longer draw lengths too.

[Stagmitis]

Hey powder aside from what Kirk said it looks like there is just glue filling the end of the fade instead of the lams being tight between the two.

[Kirkll]

With shorter draw lengths the fades do not get as much pressure as longer draw lengths put on them. The way a limb loads up and stores energy is like a wave. As the limbs begin to bend the load is distributed along the length of the limb like a wave going towards the tips until the string angle changes and the limb tips start getting close together. As you continue the draw cycle, the pressure, or wave of pressure comes back down to the fades again. Think of your fade area as an overload leaf spring. If the fades do not have any spring to them, or able to flex at all, a hinge point develops and huge amounts of compression builds up and eventually something has to give....

That is why it has become so popular ti use long lean wedges in take down limbs, and the use of power lams on one piece bows are used to push the fades out further where it distributes the load further out on the limb without overloading the fades.     .02 cents worth...  Kirk

[Powder]

Thanks all!