Having trouble sharpening

[Pathfinder1974!]

So I have some single bevel VPA broadheads and I’m having trouble sharpening them. I have a KME broadhead sharpener but can’t seem to match the bevel angle set by factory. It says it’s 35deg bevel but as steep as I can make the kme it’s not matching bevel. Should I just max it out and set new bevel or could I be doing something wrong?

[John Cholin]

Path,

I'm not familiar with that head. I'm a Grizzly guy. But I have been a BP-Gunsmith for 30 years and teach a sharpening seminar at the Gunmakers' Fair in Kempton, PA most years so I know how to sharpen blades. I sharped up my heads for hunting last week and they are all shaving sharp. This is how I do mine.

I use the Lansky Crock-Stick crotch sharpening block with the 2 sets of rods and holes at 20 degrees and 25 degrees. I also use a fresh mill-bastard cut file. The Nicholsons aren't as good as they used to be; I like Grobets.

The factory grind on every head I have ever seen is not so good. Stainless steel will not take and hold an edge, too much nickel and not enough carbon in the steel, so don't waste your time with then.

Get a good, fresh file and sharpen the edges to a 15 degree included angle. You can draw file because the wire-edge burr will come off shortly.

Then set the coarse, dark rods in the 20 degree set of holes of the Lansky Crock stick sharpening jig and give each edge 50 strokes. Count them out, same number on each side. This action is forming a sharp edge just where the two sides of the cutting surfaces meet. Don't apply too much force while you stroke as that bends the edge forming a burr and any burr on the edge will just roll over and your cutting edge is GONE.

One you are done with the coarse rods put the fine, white rods into the 25 degree set of holes.  That's right, the 25 degree set of holes.  Now take 20 strokes with very light pressure on each side of each edge. This puts a "micro-bevel" at the very edge of the cutting edge. If your heads are made of good high-carbon steel and were properly heat treated this will result in a shaving sharp edge. Look-up "Scary sharp" in your search program. This is how all of us gunsmiths, wood workers, carvers, etc. sharpen our tools. The key is a good smooth edge finished with the micro-bevel at the edge.

My quiver is filled with a dozen arrows, each one shaved the hair off a patch of the back of my hand with both edges before it went into the quiver.

I've been doing it this way for decades. I hope this helps you get where you want to be.

Best Regards and Stick a Big One,
JMC

[Seeker]

believe you need a high angle adapter for the KME, for anything 30 degrees +.  You can find it on their website.   You could re-set the bevel, but will take an awful lot of time and effort.

[Pathfinder1974!]

Thanks guys all comments and advise has been very helpful!!!!

[Pat B]

I assume you removed the burr from the back side of the bevel? If not, be sure you have the file completely flat on the back of the blade at the bevel.

[John Cholin]

Friends ,

This highlights one of the problems with single bevel broadheads. If you are only sharpening one side of an edge, the very edge of the cutting edge rolls over, away from the abrasive. Wood-workers and gunsmiths refer to it as the wire or feather edge. It rolls-over and doesn't cut. You can see this clearly if you study your cutting edges with a microscope.

When my fellow woodworkers and I prepare a single-bevel edge like a plane iron (its actually made of 1095 steel) the first step is flattening the back down to at least 600 grit. The back of the tool is mirror bright and dead-flat. Then we start sharpening the bevel at the recommended cutting angle, usually 20 to 25 degrees, depending on the wood species and cutting task. Once we have a fine, uniform edge, we adjust our sharpening angle by 2 to 4 degrees and make a micro-bevel with very light pressure at either 800 or 1000 grit. After we have a microbevel established (it appears as a fine shiny line at the very edge of the cutting edge) we must remove the wire/feather edge. Since this is a single bevel blade we must place the back of the blade on the 1000 grit stone and remove the wire edge. For woodworking tools I finish up with a leather strop charged with ultra-fine diamond dust but that step is over kill for broadheads.

If your single-bevel broadhead has a paint coating on the back side it is necessary to remove that as you are flattening the unbeveled side of the cutting edge.

If you want  sharp heat you need the microbevel regardless of what type of head you use.

Best Regards,

JMC

[Wheels2]

I use Snuffers.  I work them on a flat stone, and then 600 grit auto sandpaper on a flat surface, then Arkansas stone. Push, turn, push, turn.

[fishone]

I am shooting the double bevel VPA broadhead. The degree of sharpening is 22.5 degree. I have to sharpen them on a KME knife sharpener system.

[fishone]

Vantage Point Archery (VPA) single bevel broadheads have a 35° blade angle and should be sharpened at that angle with a jig. VPA recommends the KME broadhead sharpener, and the Spacer Block accessory is required for all single bevels. The Delta Jaws accessory is required for broadheads under 2 in, except for 300 grain.

[Michael Guran]

I have killed a few animals with the VPA single bevels and struggled to sharpen them until a got a paper wheel for my bench grinder.  If they are right out of the package, it only takes a few light passes on the wheel to get them crazy sharp.  I think I did 8-10 passes on the bevel and finished with 2-3 on the back and that was it.  Now if they are dull, it will take more work than just the paper wheels…

[Joey Ward]

I like those heads. They are easier to sharpen than lots of other single bevel designs. Watching someone sharpen them is way better and easier than I can describe in words. The VPA website and youtube have some really good videos on how to sharpen them. It may be easier for you to check out some of those videos and watch what is used and how they do it.