Author Topic: Sanding glass weight reduction  (Read 423 times)

Online kennym

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Sanding glass weight reduction
« on: February 09, 2025, 06:22:35 PM »
I really hate to do it but need a few off a bow.

You like to sand back or belly or both ?
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Online Crooked Stic

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Re: Sanding glass weight reduction
« Reply #1 on: February 09, 2025, 06:47:11 PM »
I assume you have rounded the corners aggressively first? Sort of a trapping. Then the belly. I have taken as much as nine lbs corners belly and back but it took awhile. I have started with 80 grit counting strokes to 180.
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Online kennym

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Re: Sanding glass weight reduction
« Reply #2 on: February 09, 2025, 07:14:53 PM »
She's trapped to the back,, but I gotta look to see if I can round the belly corners some more. Don't want to narrow it any more.

My stack math must suck lately... :biglaugh:
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Re: Sanding glass weight reduction
« Reply #3 on: February 09, 2025, 07:54:25 PM »
My stack math suffers at times to.  :dunno:
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Online Kirkll

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Re: Sanding glass weight reduction
« Reply #4 on: February 09, 2025, 11:20:56 PM »
How much you can safely sand glass depends on the draw weight and limb design. It’s actually a lot more than you would think. A 50# bow will hold up fine with .030 glass belly and back. So if you are using .040 glass you could sand as much as .010 belly and back if  you are accurately doing it.

I’ve taken as much as 12 pounds off limbs before and they lasted many years. I’ve got a bow I’ve used personally for almost 15 years that I put .022 clear glass over . 012 veneers , over carbon that is still going strong and I bet I have 30,000 arrows through that 57 bow….


Btw…. Don’t be afraid to narrow up a width profile. Even on a recurve design you would be surprised how narrow you can make these and still maintain stability if your design isn’t too radical. Your limb shape and limb thickness is what determines stability. Not width….On light weight glass limb  bows, use a parallel lam, or even a reverse taper to keep the thickness at the base of the curl. Either that or use a bias weave carbon on the back to help hold it straight.     

I regularly use 80 grit to tiller my bows and Lower draw weight to within a couple pounds of target wt. Then finish sand them…. I sand both belly and back evenly myself. I try and hit draw weight about 5 pounds over target weight on rough profile draw check.

Now heavy draw weight bows over 60-70 # I use thicker glass,  but using .040 glass in the 60-70 # range I limit the sanding to minimal tillering adjustments.
« Last Edit: February 09, 2025, 11:30:56 PM by Kirkll »
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Online kennym

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Re: Sanding glass weight reduction
« Reply #5 on: February 21, 2025, 08:41:18 PM »
Thanks Kirk

I slowly and carefully got her down to my target weight . She pretty quick too for 44@28
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Online Roy from Pa

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Re: Sanding glass weight reduction
« Reply #6 on: February 22, 2025, 02:30:08 PM »
Didn't happen wifout pichers....

Online Watsonjay

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Re: Sanding glass weight reduction
« Reply #7 on: February 22, 2025, 02:33:00 PM »
In some of the reading I’ve done it said glass was better at tension than compression, so if im not trapping I usually start on the back. Im here to learn if Im doing it wrong though.

Online kennym

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Re: Sanding glass weight reduction
« Reply #8 on: February 22, 2025, 03:17:03 PM »
Didn't happen wifout pichers....

Ain't got no finish on it or even done finish sanding... :biglaugh:
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Online Roy from Pa

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Re: Sanding glass weight reduction
« Reply #9 on: February 22, 2025, 03:25:06 PM »
Didn't happen wifout pichers....

Ain't got no finish on it or even done finish sanding... :biglaugh:

So what's yer point Spanky?:)

Online Watsonjay

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Re: Sanding glass weight reduction
« Reply #10 on: February 22, 2025, 03:40:09 PM »
Has to be pretty to show it!! :goldtooth:

Online kennym

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Re: Sanding glass weight reduction
« Reply #11 on: February 22, 2025, 04:31:50 PM »
This all ya get for now  :biglaugh:


Online Watsonjay

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Re: Sanding glass weight reduction
« Reply #12 on: February 22, 2025, 05:00:34 PM »

Online mmattockx

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Re: Sanding glass weight reduction
« Reply #13 on: February 22, 2025, 07:17:19 PM »
In some of the reading I’ve done it said glass was better at tension than compression, so if im not trapping I usually start on the back. Im here to learn if Im doing it wrong though.

Almost every material we use is better in tension than compression and fibreglass is no exception. Trapping the back and/or sanding the back glass first is the best way to go if you don't want to narrow the whole limb like Kirk was suggesting.


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