bow finish

[chrisg]

We are looking for an oil based finish for a BBO bow and have read a lot of guys use 'Tru oil'. I have never seen it in the shelves in our hardware outlets but there is a product known as "Danish oil". Is this the same thing? I am fairly certain Tru Oil is a brand name and not the name of the actual product. Any suggestions? Thanks for the help    
chrisg

[Killdeer]

Tru-Oil is manufactured by Birchwood Casey, and is used a lot for finishing gun stocks. I believe it is a modified tung oil finish. It is self-leveling and easy to use.

I always got mine from dealers in firearms supplies. Look in the bluing and refinishing sections of the store or catalog.

Killdeer

[chrisg]

Ah thanks Killy, Birchwood Casey rings a bell. Maybe I am looking in the wrong place, we've still got plenty of gunsmiths about, I'll try there. I wonder what Danish oil is? I have heard of it too but never used it either but it comes recommended by a a Swiss master craftsman friend! Should I seek further..    :rolleyes:  
chrisg

[oldpaths]

I get mine in the sporting goods section at wal mart, around here they carrt tru oil

[Rubiolio]

Truoil is a "unique blend of linseed and natural oils" according to the label. Smells like it has tung oil in it. It's very fast drying for an oil finish. "Danish oil" is a generic term, with different manufacturers having various formulas, it can be tung oil or linseed oil based, blended with urethane or other varnish resins. Either one will require several thin coats to get a satisfactory finish, likely six or more, truoil requires about 2 hours between coats, danish oils I've used require about 6. I like truoil.

[TonyW]

3Rivers carries it, if you can't find it on the shelves.

[chrisg]

Thanks very much for the info. I did a search on another engine and came up with the same as you Rubilio, Tru Oil seems to be based on tung oil and Danish on linseed oil, both are altered by the addition of other components such as resins.There is even a reciepe for your own danish oil. Danish is slower but from what I can see there is not a lot of difference between them, oh yes they can be toxic so take care using either. I know 3 rivers carries it but they wont ship it by air- flammable product. Anyway thanks for the help guys, we will carry on and maybe post a couple of pics soon.
chrisg

[smilinicon]

please note that rags that have linseed oil on them (dried) can spontaneously combust, although I have never seen it happen. I thought I would pass it along.

Cary

[chrisg]

good warning, craftspeople who use glues, stains and laquer/paints etc should watch out for fire. Then there is toxic dust etc. Good ventilation and workshop practice makes life easier and safer. I never knew that about linseed oil on rags. You learn stuff every day here!
chrisg

[OkKeith]

Chrisg,

Tru-oil has Japan Drier in it. That is what makes it dry faster. It works pretty good but can be sort of shiney.

You might look at using a homemade paste finish. I have a concoction I use and it seems to work very well with only 2 coats. Here is the recipie:

2 parts linseed oil (warmed in a dark container in the sun)

1 part mineral spirits

1/2 part melted bees wax (the purer the wax the lighter the final color of the finish. I kinda like a dark honey colored finish on my bows, so I just get the wax from local sources.)

BEING CAREFUL NOT TO GET ANYTHING WITH VAPORS NEAR AN OPEN FLAME, mix the 3 parts together. If you want to tint the finish with a color, I have used powered clothing dies such as Rit, mixed into the mineral spirits before I mix everything up. As it cools it will form a paste. If you want it thinner, add more mineral spirits, thicker add less. If you don't want to mess with melting the wax, put it in a glass jar with the mineral spirits and it will dissolve in a few days or so.

I use a clean, soft rag to apply the finish. Gob it on then generate a little heat by rubbing it in. When it seems dry to the touch, do it again. With a newly made bow, I will set it in the sun for a brief period to warm it up before I apply the finish. The oil and spirits soak in carrying the wax with it. The oil dries, and the spirits evaporate leaving a fairly hard finish that can be buffed out to a soft shine or left a little dull.

When I am on a multiple day hunt, away from the house, I carry a couple of Skoal snuff cans (the all plastic kind) with some finish in it for an emergency touch up. One fairly thin and one thick to apply if needed. It's inexpensive, easy to make and I think it looks good.

OkKeith

[Zbone]

"please note that rags that have linseed oil on them (dried) can spontaneously combust, although I have never seen it happen. I thought I would pass it along"


Had a family member's house burn down when a linseed oil soiled rag caught fire near a gas water heater. Happen late at night, all got out safe, but the house was a total loss.

[chrisg]

Wow! Zbone, that's a bad story I am glad they all got out.I'm gonna do a clean out of my workshop,it could do with one! Seriously. That's the thing with stuff that produces vapour, add a little heat or a spark and you've got trouble. Same with heating stuff over a flame. I spent twenty five years firing stoneware pottery with oil, waste oil and gas, I was always more than respectful of my gas set up.

Okkeith your mix sounds very like a beeswax furniture finish we make but with the linseed oil added. We make it up with natural turpentine to dissolve the wax, it smells great,piney and intense. The finish ends up mildly sticky if you use too much, better to do several layers and rub hard. I think I will try your version and see what kind of surface we get on a trial piece. I also keep some in an old 35mmfilm canister in my pack for those touch up jobs.If you add a tiny proportion of lanolin it turns into a smooth creme. Tried to make a softer string wax like that so I learned something but didn't get the string wax I wanted!

This is a very interesting discussion, I appreciate the input.
chrisg

[OkKeith]

Chris,

My Dad uses that paste on gun stocks. It works well for us. I look forward to hearing about your tests.
OkKeith

[chrisg]

Thanks for the replies everyone. My friend likes the wax/oil finish but is worried about the 'extra weight in the limbs' adding to very mild handshock. His limbs came out 69". We decided to go for a base coat of ureathane to seal it with your wax top, OkKeith. To keep the handshock down we can shorten the limbs an inch, there is space, but he likes the length and the speed we got out of it. It has turned out real nice. We hit the target weight of 55# and it is fast enough with a heavy arrow 10gr/inch. BBO with a thin interlam of bamboo, so technically it's a trilam I guess! When I get the picture posting down I'll put a pic up.  
chrisg

[Rob DiStefano]

Particularly for oily woods like cocobolo and rosewood, I like sealing with some thin CYA (super glue) then acetone mixed in with slow set epoxy ("Massey finish").  In fact, the entire bow can be finished with rubbed in epoxy as well.  Extremely durable.  Complete the finish by buffing down with 0000 steel wool to kill any shine.  I use that same finish on my lathe turned wooden fishing lures - did I mention "durable"? And great looking, too!  

[chrisg]

I have heard of the Massey finish and guys here use the super glue trick to stabilise surfaces before spraying. Super glue is expensive here, but then so is imported bamboo and osage!! The durability is a major plus though. Nice to have many options. My buddy is away for the week so all is on hold. Hunting season now and nice and dry, water is less of a problem for us than it is for you.
chrisg