Broadheads Coming Un-Glued

[Hood]

I'm shooting Magnus 4 Blades and have been for awhile (Although I recently switched to the 150's). I've always used a short taper because I can't get the bleeders to seat properly otherwise.

Now they won't stay glued to the shaft. I cleaned them with lacquer thinner prior to glueing them on the shaft.

I even tried a bead of super glue around the edge after using the ferrule-tite glue.

Any Suggestions?

Thanks!

[George D. Stout]

I never have trouble with hot melt...the stick like grim death 8^).  Maybe the thinner has some oily residue.

[woodchucker]

I only use Ferrle-Tite.....NEVER had a problem.  

After you clean your broadhead with thinner,blow the flame of your propane torch inside of the broadhead for a second or two to burn off any residue.

If your using screw in tapered inserts,clean them real good,then hit them with the torch before applying the Ferrle-Tite.

[Hood]

I was having trouble with them staying on, so I tried cleaning them with the thinner. I always use Ferrle-Tite Glue and heat the broadhead real good before putting them on the shaft.

Any other ideas????

[JEFF B]

i only use 2 pot epoxy they never come off until ya heat em up with a blow tourch.  

[George D. Stout]

Hood....I think he mean use the flame inside the ferrule to rid any residue.  I never lose broadheads when using ferrule tite.

[Hood]

Hey George,

I do put the flame inside the ferrule. I've never had any problems until this year. I've been using ferrule-tite for almost thirty years....ummm....lets just say my father was using it probably before I was born. Never had a problem until now.

I thought maybe it was just a bad sick of glue or maybe the short taper. I think I will try cleaning it with sand paper. That should work!

Thanks very much for every one's input!!!

[Killdeer]

Here is my method:

Take a piece of sandpaper and wrap it around an arrow taper.

Put the arrowhead on, over the sandpaper, and give it a couple of twists.

Dump it in a small bowl of alcohol.

Repeat until you have roughened up all the heads' ferrules, and leave them in the alcohol.

Put hot-melt on the shaft tapers.

Take a pair of pliers and use it to hold a point over the burner of the kitchen stove. Play with it, making the alcohol burn out of the ferrule like a jet engine hitting the afterburners. Don't overheat the head. There are more heads and you can play with them after you put this one on.

Spin the shaft taper into the ferrule and check for straightness. Hold the point in a little dribble of water to set it, and wipe off the excess glue.

Repeat for all the other shafts.
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Are you using a steel taper with aluminums or carbons? Try scoring it with the sandpaper, and use the rubbing alcohol and a flame (heat the taper to apply your hot-melt) to insure that there is no grease on it.

Some targets grab heads more than others, like the foam targets at my club, especially when wet. Older, oxidized 3D targets do this too. (Rhinehearts are a target shooter's dream!) My heads seldom come off.

Killdeer