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Author Topic: Tiller top limb  (Read 495 times)

Offline TNstickn

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Re: Tiller top limb
« Reply #20 on: August 09, 2008, 06:17:00 PM »
BebBow, thanks! I dont think I would have searched for those type of vids. It came back with 370,000 results. Have'nt stumbled across the ones Im looking for yet. I've watched a bunch of really neat slow motion vids, man everything is wigglin, twitchin, bendin and flexin every witch way. Makes me wish I had a high speed camera to see how my own set ups are behaving. The search continues. If I find anything that pertains to this thread I will post it. -Greg
Pick a spot.>>>>-------> Shoot straight.

Offline TNstickn

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Re: Tiller top limb
« Reply #21 on: August 10, 2008, 01:12:00 AM »
"No mate, what I would do is start out with your 62" bow stave, mark the centre and then mark half of the 1 1/2" which is 3/4" above centre and make that the centre of your handle, that will give you an 1 1/2 shorter bottom limb...Glenn..."

Thats totally backwards. Reread your post.
Marking any distance above(top limb is above center,bottom limb is below) true center would shorten the top limb and lengthen the bottom limb.
Texasarchery.org has several videos of olympic style recurves beening shot from a side view, not that great either. I looked for about 3 hrs today. In the vids the bottom limb does move slightly earlier. I think that it backs up the need to pos. tiller the shorter top limb, bringing it in time with the bottom. After giving all the above post equal consideration and spending most of my shop time today searching for vids, its what I see. Take a look and give me your view. I can see some funky grip bringing the fulcrum pt to true center, but not the arrow. That would make shooting very difficult unless the bow was made for that shooter wich could be your case, what ever works for you, I say stick with it. Not trying to stir the pot,just trying to figure out the best way to tiller my own bows. I dont have the time or materials to waste on a bunch of bow experiments. Maybe someday my position will change, and I will do the test for all of us. Until then hopefully we can kick it back and forth, peek someones interest that does have the resources.   :campfire:
Pick a spot.>>>>-------> Shoot straight.

Offline Glenn Newell

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Re: Tiller top limb
« Reply #22 on: August 10, 2008, 03:37:00 PM »
TNsticks, maybe I should have said mark your bow stave out with an offset handle 3/4"below centre instead of above centre, of course the shorter limb is the bottom limb, it's not a finished bow t this stage, it's just a bow stave.
If you are making fibreglass laminated bows with equal length limbs you can shoot the bow off your hand before the sight window and shelf are cut in, just shoot it in the positive tillered position and then turn it up the other way and shoot it in the negative tillered position and see what you think...Glenn...

Offline TNstickn

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Re: Tiller top limb
« Reply #23 on: August 10, 2008, 07:20:00 PM »
Great idea Glenn! Do not forget that I dont have a clue of what I'm doing and just feeling my way around in the dark. I appreciate your response. -Greg
Pick a spot.>>>>-------> Shoot straight.

Offline BenBow

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Re: Tiller top limb
« Reply #24 on: August 11, 2008, 10:31:00 PM »
I've been gone for a few days so wanted to catch up on this thread. TNstickn I need some clarification on your statement below.
   
Quote
"In the vids the bottom limb does move slightly earlier. I think that it backs up the need to pos. tiller the shorter top limb, bringing it in time with the bottom."
Am I understanding that your saying because the lower limb moves slightly faster you would   weaken  the upper limb to have it catch up with the lower? If so I have a hard time with that.
But his bow will remain steady, and his hands will be skillful; because of the hands of the Mighty One of Jacob, because of the Shepherd, the Rock of Israel,  (Genesis 49:24 [NETfree])

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