Bow-Bolt

[WildmanSC]

Does the riser have Phenolic in it?  Craig recommends that it be used in Phenolic risers or risers with a good section of Phenolic in it.

Bill

[pdk25]

The riser is dymondwood and the ends have some sort of insert, capping the cut ends.

[AdamH]

PAT,, Now you know L/B's are supposed to be ONE Pc. !! Just kiddin ya BUD, hope ya get it taken care of, I know how much you like that bow.. Good Luck...

[DC]

When you say it is loosening is it unthreading or is there play like the parts don't mesh as tight as they did when new. If it's unthreading you might try a little medium strength loctite (blue) on the threads. Do the mating parts show any signs of wear or stress?

[Mohawkbows]

Get in contact with Craig Warren, he has a fix for the unthreading part.

[Holm-Made]

There is nothing unsafe about how that bolt was put in.  Kevin left at least 1/4" of dymondwood all the way around the bolt.  Craig recommends at least 1/8".  I install my bolts further toward the back of the bow but also have a smaller grip then the RER does.

As far as the gap on the back of the riser.  That is normal.  I've built 10 bows with bow bolts and they all had that gap when the bow was strung.  I believe that there must be a little play in the threads so when the bow is strung the gap is present.

As far as the bow unthreading check with Craig on that one.  He does have a solution but I can't remember what that is.  I'd try wrapping the threads with thread tape to snug everything up.  I do that on my screw in field points to keep them from loosing up when I shoot LW feathers.  

I wouldn't worry about the bow if it were mine.  Chad

[pdk25]

Thanks very much for the input everyone.  I will get in contact with Mr. Warren about the unthreading.  I'm glad to hear from Chad Holm about his experience with the bows.  I have shot a couple of thousand arrows through the bow and it still shoots great, although I can't always say the same for me.  I will talk to Kevin at RER and see if he thinks it is a problem.  If not I will keep on shooting it.  Will play it by ear for now.  Sorry to hear about all the bow's that blew up.  Hopefully mine won't be one of them.

[Glenn Newell]

Using the thread tape is a real good idea, I use to have a noisy take down recurve until I wraped the limb bolts with thread seal tape and the difference was unbelievable, it made it feel like a different bow when being shot....Glenn....

[suttoman]

I had problems with mine so I sold the bow.  However the guy who makes them (Warren I think) wrote to me with the solution on how to fix it.

If you write to him he can inform you.  

I need to have confidence in my setup and this certainly wasn't it. I now only shoot three piece T/D L/B's, they are indestructible, more accurate with the mass in the riser and instill confidence!

Sutto

[Mike Orton]

I've got a Morrison Cougar 49# @ 28 that Ted Frye installed a Warren Bow Bolt into.  It was a nice job in terms of craftsmanship and the system works well after 2 years + of shooting.

The question I have is regarding the durability of the two sections of laminate that touch each other when the bow is put together.  If those pieces of laminate are a soft wood it seams like they might compress, creating a gap after the pasage of time and many arrows.

As I see it either the bolts are pulling out, the metal in the bolts has stretched or perhaps bent, or the mating surfaces (wood laminate) have collapsed slightly

[Jeremy]

I think we're all forgetting that a riser, even a metal one, flexes when the bow is strung and shot.  The whole thing, bolt included flexes.  That alone would make you see a gap at the front of the riser while strung.

The only bow I've seen that came unscrewed when shot had the tips slightly out of alignment.

Despite problems with the way some bowyers install the bolt, I think it's the slickest 2pc system out there and when installed per the instructions it can't be beat!